After sending him happily on his way I went into Inverness' Tesco to stock up on food and drink for the last two weeks of our epic journey. We met for lunch but, unfortunately, Munlochy Hotel was shut, so this is when the fridge in the van is great!
I visited the Black Isles Brewery to purchase beers and polo shirts for The Walker but was only successful in buying the former. He's not having a lot of luck with polo shirts with specific emblems - everybody seems to only have tee-shirts. It was a busy little place, offering free tours but as we are going to a brewery in Derby to make our own in September, I decided that I was not that interested in beer and preferred to go and sit at Culbokie, which has amazing views over the Cromarty Firth.
The day, which started pleasantly enough, has turned into a real scorcher. It has been lovely to be at the campsite early and enjoy the weather - as yet without the company of midges!
From Bernie:
Today's walk 16.4 miles : Cumulative 1159.5 miles
Whilst Section 9 had been 'The Great Glen Way' & I'd reached the end of that at Inverness Castle yesterday afternoon, I knew I wouldn't really feel satisfied until I'd walked to the sea lock at the end of the Caledonian Canal & crossed the Kessock Bridge over the Moray Firth - hence my circuitous route around the waterways of the city this morning & the much-longer-than-strictly-necessary walk! Produced some stunning views, though!
Interesting views, too! This is a model liner at the bottom of somebody's garden! Its size can be judged by the fully grown trees behind!
Reached Muirtown Basin at the same time as the 'Fingal' cruise - they've kept me company along the Great Glen but I was curious as to what they do now with their adventurers. Perhaps it's the orienteering part of their holiday - find your own way back to Fort William!
End of Caledonian Canal & the Beauly Firth
Highlight of the Day: the very end of the Caledonian Canal, with the Beauly Firth & the mountains of Glen Orrin stretching away to the west, the elegant Kessock Bridge & ever-widening mouth of the Moray Firth to the east. Difficult to explain that this is barely a mile from the largest city in the Highlands! As with 'The West Highland Way', it's a pity 'The Great Glen Way' should end, ignominiously, amongst crowds of people.... I'm sure that, wherever the end, walkers/visitors would still visit the town centres & pay their dues.
Northern entrance to Caledonian Canal
Lots of road-walking today but all along quiet lanes across the neck of the Black Isle &, in truth, it wasn't much different from the forestry tracks of the last week. I've read loads of stuff about why this beautiful peninsula is called the 'Black Isle' but will stick with the explanation given to me by a farmer on my first visit many years ago - he told me it was on account of the black fertile soil & farming land compared to the surrounding barren areas; the rolling wheatfields, some already harvested, are testament to that.
The Black Isle - near Munlochy
Quite strange to be walking alone again after the camaraderie & motorway-like walking of The West Highland Way & Great Glen Way but really enjoyed being back on my own route & doing 'proper' map-reading rather than just following signs! Still wondering if I'll meet any other foot-LeJogger before the end.... I suppose all routes should start converging soon!
This last stretch through the Highlands is a bit of a problem with few guidebooks suggesting the same route, few happy with their choice & none recommending my east coast option! None of their routes, however, offer castles, cathedrals, outrageous monuments, a distillery, a brewery, a last Sir Walter Scott memorial &, to my mind, one of the most impressive pieces of Industrial Heritage in Britain! OK, so I have to contend with the A9 - it's only a road!
North Kessock - departure point for the Moray Firth ferry before the bridge was opened 1n 1982. We stayed here on our way to the Orkneys two summers ago
The manager visited 'The Black Isle Brewery' this afternoon & stocked up on bottles to see me through any 'dry' periods ahead.... she also arranged to order me a polo-shirt! I'll have a completely new wardrobe by the time I get home, to replace the tops I've worn out on this walk
North Kessock Primary School - wouldn't you be in a rush to get to school every day when there's a wonderful sculpure like this to look at?
Beer of the Day: disappointed to find the 'Munlochy Hotel' now only opens in the evening - a prearranged meeting spot that worked! - I had an excellent lunchtime pint on my last visit. Finished at the 'Culbokie Inn' & tried a pint of Cairngorm's 'Highland IPA': horribly cloudy but tasted fine if a little uninspiring - not as good as their 'Trade Winds'.
Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Another Travelin' Song' by Bright Eyes. Just popped into my head as I strolled along & it wouldn't go away!
Pam: trouble was, we kept missing each other! I blame the manager!
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