It looked like a good day for walking when I sent The Walker on his Pennine Way. I decided not to tackle the boggy and marshy trail – a good decision as he told me later that it was pretty hard going! Instead I explored Housesteads Roman Fort, viewed a Roman temple and went to Chesters Fort to look at the Roman Bath House – the best preserved one in Britain. It was all really good and I feel quite knowledgeable on the subject of Hadrian’s Wall!
Temple dedicated to Mithras built by Roman soldiers from Carrawburgh Fort
Heard and saw a couple of funny things today. At Housesteads a teacher was with a group of 11 or 12 year old boys and had been informing them that this was the captain’s house and as he was so important what would he have next to him? Quick as a flash a boy answered, “His wife”; and another said, “A toilet”. Not sure what the right answer was but these were good!
On the walk back to the van I had to smile at a young Australian (about 24ish) who had a superb swinging blue tartan kilt over his jeans. He had just bought it in Scotland and felt he had to wear it!
From Bernie:
Today’s walk 13.8 miles : Cumulative 802.8 miles
View from our van for the last two nights – believe it or not, this is the River Tyne!
Bade a sad farewell to Hadrian’s Wall & made my way across the boggy land below the Whin Sill – at least I was heading north again!
Sewingshields Crags – local legend has it that King Arthur & his knights are sleeping here.... note the tense!
Particularly sad as I didn’t expect a great deal from today’s walk; looking at a map there is just too much featureless moorland, punctuated only by dense forestry plantations; one of those stretches that have to be walked to join up the more interesting bits. Not as depressing as it sounds, just heavy going & very easy to lose your way on the open areas where animal tracks lead to the most unwelcoming bogs! A warm, muggy day so midges & flies were out in force – I must remember my midge-net tomorrow!
Very last view of Hadrian’s Wall & the Whin Sill
Met a cheerful group of 4 D of E girls – I took them to be the ‘Gold’ group as they referred to the ‘Silver’ girls ahead who had, coincidentally, been on last night’s campsite at Haltwhistle. They were from Suffolk, too – a lot of us southerners up in Northumbria at the moment!
Helped out a couple of Geordies I’d been following for a while this afternoon. They’d stopped beside a broken waymarker laying on the ground – they’d been so deep in conversation that, without a signpost & no track on the ground to follow, they were unsure which way to head for Bellingham. Tricky places, these moors!
Sneaked in but I get to leave through the main gate!
Highlight of the Day: Haughton Common – a strange oasis of open moorland bordered on 3 distant sides by forestry plantations & on the fourth by a steep brow. I stopped here for cider & a snack & it was almost like being in a different world: no animals, no birds, no wind, no sounds.... until the blasted flies found me!
Beer of the Day: we’d been to Bellingham in 2005 on the Ravenber walk & I didn’t remember it as being a particularly good place for pubs. This afternoon they were mostly closed, with the exception of ‘The Cheviot Hotel’ where I enjoyed a couple of pints of ‘Nel’s Best’ brewed by the local High House Farm Brewery: golden, with a strong hoppy flavour, this is good & well-worth trying. Strangely, again it was served almost chilled; I’m not keen on warm beer but in this part of the country they seem to like it particularly cold.
Curious gun from Fort Taku in China – presented to Bellingham in 1900!
Song of the Day (an occasional series!): Buzzin’ Fly by Tim Buckley!
Ann: it hadn’t occurred to me but yes, we do match! Think that’s it for visitors now – by the time everybody finishes for the Summer we’ll be so far north & so close to the end it probably won’t be worth their while trekking up here! Hunter Gatherers would love some of the pubs we’ve been to.... pity it’s so far!
Glen & David: Thanks for the message – good to know you’re still with us & enjoying the views!
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