Sunday, 3 July 2011

Day 66 - Byrness to Jedburgh

There was not a cloud in the sky this morning as The Walker set off for a long trek into Scotland. I didn't get a lie-in but had a lazy morning before I drove to Jedburgh. Must just mention another caravanner who had two dogs; they kept barking and were a bit of a nuisance. However, it wasn't really their fault as they were locked up in a small cage virtually all the time we were there. It seemed pretty cruel to me.

 The A68 is a wonderful road north; we have been over the border in a couple of places but never this way and Carter Bar definitely has the best views! This is, naturally, a popular place to stop and take photos; lots of people (notably foreigners,bikers and myself) were doing just  this.There was also  a piper , all kitted out in the traditional kilt! The road down to Jedburgh is magic - the first view of the Abbey and the town is superb.


It was really hot, but I felt that I had to fulfil my obligations as a tourist, but thought that I could maybe leave the town trail until tomorrow and just visit the abbey. There was a great audio tour, so I spent a good couple of hours there. My whole impression of Jedburgh is that it's a really attractive town - hope it doesn't disappoint tomorrow.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  17.5 miles     :     Cumulative  835.1 miles

Hottest day of the whole expedition & it had to be the day of one of the longest & toughest walks! The road had melted in one of the small valleys near Hindhope & a passing farm buggy left its tracks as if it was going through sand - reminded me of Colonsay & our poor tar-spattered car!

Started with the stiff climb to the top of Byrness Hill & my final escape from the trappings of Kielder Forest, the Redesdale part. The views from here across the reservoir, over the vast expanse of forestry &, northwards, to the Border Ridge are as fine as anything on LeJog &, if not for the cross-country road-walking to Jedburgh, this would have been my favourite walk so far. As a village, Byrness has almost disappeared: built to house workers on the Catcleugh dam construction, reduced in size to accommodate the first forestry workers & now there's little left beyond a row of cottages, a church & a tiny school.


Catcleugh Reservoir

The ridge walk towards the border is absolutely stunning with the gigantic valley of Cottonshopeburn falling away to the east & the rolling hills & peaks stacked up ahead: green in the foreground, blue/grey in the distance & 'The Cheviot' rising above them all - we were there on our 'Ravenber' walk. The only sinister aspect is the constant sound of explosions & gunfire from the Otterburn military ranges - why do the MOD always have the good bits? They own &, I suppose, use 20% of the Northumberland National Park - seems a bit of a contradiction to me!


Cottonshopeburn Valley


The Border Ridge
Superb today but navigating across this in poor weather must be a nightmare & soul-destroying for beleagured Pennine Way walkers nearing the finish!

Highlight of the Day: crossing the border from England to Scotland just before leaving 'The Pennine Way' shortly before its end. My crossing may not have been as impressive as Les' but, apart from the gunfire, it was much quieter! Spent the next few miles thinking, That's it! I'm in Scotland!' Great feeling!


My border-crossing - just a wire mesh fence & death threats!

Beer of the Day: first pub in Scotland & no real ales! Plenty of run-of-the-mill, super-chilled, non-descript stuff that you can buy anywhere - hope this isn't a sign of things to come! Made up for this with my last leftover bottle from the Peak District - Titanic brewery's 'Iceberg'; bought these after trying their 'White Star' on draught. I prefer the 'White Star' but, overall, I like Titanic's beers.


Hindhope - hot-spot of the Cheviots!

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): Al Stewart's 'On the Border' - wrong border but I don't care, really!

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