Day 78 - Drymen to Rowardennan

I was looking forward to today to see how much I could remember of the 2004 walk and I was not disappointed. It's a smashing path from Drymen through the Queen Elizabeth Forest; there are lots of forestry operations happening here which has meant clearing large areas, so whereas plantation walks can feel very oppresive, this was more open and had some lovely views.

Conic Hill  over Balmaha is worth the climb as the view of Loch Lomond is superb; I remember it was really hot last time and other walkers offered us water as we had run out. I must remember, though, not to follow the Walker down  "short cut" paths, as he thought he could find a quicker way down - a steep and rocky path that no-one else was using and I know why! The kids will remember Dad's own routes!

I caught the bus back to the van and chatted to some lovely ladies who lived near Glasgow and were just up for the day. They were lamenting the days when they had camped on the shores of the loch. I drove to our meeting place and sat looking over Loch Lomond - a good place to end the day.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  13.4 miles     :     Cumulative  988.6 miles

If yesterday's first day on The West Highland Way was much easier than I remembered then today's second day was correspondingly tougher! Brilliant day's walking, though!

Loch Lomond from forestry track

Loch Lomond is a much-maligned tourist hotspot by those who stick to its western shore, the A82 & the route to the Highlands - its eastern shore, with only limited road access to less than half its length, is frequented mainly by walkers &, I think, offers some of the most picturesque scenery in the whole of Scotland

Looking north towards Ben Lomond

Highlight of the Day: has to be Conic Hill though, yes, I did lead the manager over its precipitous southern edge... it's where the views are best! There are tantalizing glimpses of the Loch from the long forestry trek out of Drymen but nothing can prepare the walker for the stunning panorama that suddenly opens out from this comparatively low summit. Loch Lomond lies at your feet, its waters sparkling even beneath today's threatening rain-clouds, its islands looking as if they've been carefully placed by some landscape artist &, to the north, its majestic mountains presided over by the mighty Ben Lomond! OK, I love this spot!

Bumped into a couple of the groups of lads I mentioned yesterday. The first lot had stopped for a rest barely a mile out of Drymen & had only reached Milarrochy, our camp-site, by the time we returned - they still had about 5 miles to go if they were heading for Rowardennan. We caught up the particularly 'overladen' group coming into Balmaha, now with only one pack between them - realising their mistake, they'd sent their bags on ahead - good decision! Hope they all make it - tomorrow's weather could be a real test.

The manager abandoned me in Balmaha with the words, 'If I remember rightly, this next bit's quite easy!' This from a woman who can't even remember the pub stops! The path mostly winds along the shore, climbing over a couple of quarries & ancient forts & twisting through dense woodland - it's a tough 7 miles & took me a tired two-and-a-half hours! 'The Clansman Bar' at the Rowardennan Hotel came close to being Highlight of the Day!
Met the manager, sunning herself in the pub garden, enjoying an iced glass of Crabbie's & reading last Saturday's paper (so she can buy this week's in the morning!); she'd been there for over an hour!

Beer of the Day: Scottish Camra's Beer of the Year 2010 - 'Jarl' from Fyne Brewery, Argyll. One of the more unusual ales that I've tasted. Pale, with a very strong hoppy flavour; my first thought was that the flavour was too strong & overpowering, yet the aftertaste is really good & leaves you wanting more! Still not quite sure what to make of this.... but it's not really a walking beer.

Sallochy - there's a small lochside, unserviced campsite here

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): Good Timin' by Jimmy Jones!
The weather forecast was for persistent heavy rain from lunchtime onwards..... so persistent that it is set to continue through until Saturday evening! The clouds rumbled around us throughout the day, the first drops of rain fell as we were leaving the pub &, by the time we were hooked-up at the camp-site it was lashing down!
The only worrying thing about all of this is that tomorrow's walk, up the length of Loch Lomond's eastern shore, is one of the few on the whole LeJog with no 'escape routes'. Once you're walking that's it until you reach civilization at the other end.... maybe I'll pack an extra can of cider.

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