Monday 11 July 2011

Day 73 - Ratho to Linlithgow

The forecast was supposed to be for a fine day; the campsite owner Jean had also said yesterday that it would be nice, she was sure - unfortunately it never quite materialised. There were glimpses of sunshine but more often with rain spots and drizzle. The Walker set off happily and I think he dodged most of the rain showers.
I spent the morning looking at maps, figuring out the accommodation for the next few days whilst waiting for him to turn up at a couple of places. It wasn’t really suitable to leave the van again, though there are some better parking places on the canal. Our final meeting place was Linlithgow, where there was, fortunately, a Tesco store. (Please note, Stuart, who blogged about The Walker, that this is really the only type of shop I get to see; I would have loved to have stopped in Edinburgh for proper retail therapy!) 


Les on the wrong side of the canal at The Almond Aqueduct!

From Bernie:
Today’s walk  13.1 miles     :     Cumulative  922.3 miles

Despite the manager’s comment it was tee-shirt weather all the way along the canal today.... the rain didn’t come looking for me until barbecue-time!


Seagull Trust boats at Ratho - they operate cruises for the disabled
Easy, gentle walking – unusually for a canal, there are no locks; the Union Canal simply contours its way across the countryside at a constant height of 73 metres above sea level which makes for just about as many bizarre direction changes as on my route! It also created a bit of a problem when they came to join it to the Forth & Clyde Canal.... but that’s tomorrow’s walk!

I’d spotted a ‘Climbing Arena’ signposted as we drove to last night’s campsite &, discovering it was above the canal, couldn’t resist clambering up a steep, muddy flight of steps to have a look. What I found was a quarry which has been completely roofed-over & encased in a glass building five-storeys high to create the Edinburgh International Climbing Centre, the largest facility of its kind in the world! I did wonder a bit about that kind of ‘indoor’ climbing – might it be like ‘indoor walking’? Impressive, nonetheless, & looking quite busy this morning.

Highlight of the Day: the Union Canal keeps company with the M8 for quite a stretch along the Edinburgh-Glasgow ‘corridor’ (as well as the flight path for Edinburgh airport!) &, on several occasions as I’ve driven past I’ve looked at the mysterious red ‘mountains’ to the north of the valley & wondered if they were man-made. Now I know!

These huge mounds are slag-heaps or ‘bings’ to use the correct, Scots terminology – the residue of the world’s original oil industry! The manufacture of shale oil was a very lucrative Victorian enterprise led by Scotsman, James Young – at its peak it employed 13,000 men & covered an area several times larger than the modern refineries nearby, at Grangemouth.


Red shale 'bing' above the Union Canal at Broxburn

A fascinating footnote: Young was a close friend of the explorer, David Livingstone (saw his statue in Edinburgh yesterday!) – they had been students together in Glasgow. Young, with his vast oil wealth, sponsored several of Livingstone’s expeditions & there is a river named after him in the heart of Africa! (a branch of the Lualaba river, if you want to look that up!)

Slightly detached bing! Locally, this one is referred to as Ayres Rock!

Beer of the Day: discovered another interesting fact today, which may be common knowledge to Camra members & devotees! Visited ‘The Four Marys’ in Linlithgow as they boast 8 cask ales – they actually had 5 on tap which impressed me! However, 2 were brewed by Belhaven, 1 by Tetley & the other 2 came from Sheffield. Is it common practice for major brewers to produce ‘real ales’ & to dress them up so they look very different from their regular products.... regardless of what they taste like?!


Linlithgow skyline - St. Michael's Church & Linlithgow Palace

My pint was ‘The Four Marys’ – sounded authentic - & it was OK but I don’t mind Belhaven beer. Dark amber, malty & smooth.... I just can’t help being suspicious!
Song of the Day (an occasional series!): ‘The Man that Waters the Workers’ Beer’ by Paddy Ryan!

Arrived in Linlithgow just as a jousting competition came to an end – I’d been able to hear something going on for the last couple of miles! The town was absolutely packed! I can’t seem to escape these events, festivals & crowds!



Old Dovecot & gardens in Linlithgow

Tonight's blog will also be hopelessly late as we are staying at a site with no internet & very little phone signal!

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