Wednesday 13 July 2011

Day 75 - Falkirk to Craigmarloch (via Carron Sea Lock)

After successfully blogging in the Linlithgow Palace car park (such wonderful sites!), The Walker became a tourist again. The Palace is absolutely fantastic; huge rooms, wonderful stone spiral staircases in the four turrets and  a maze-like quality to the whole structure. School-aged children, dressed in beautiful 16th century clothes, politely offered us a guided tour, which we unfortunately had to refuse as we were on a tight schedule - we had lots to fit in today.


Courtyard & Fountain, Linlithgow Palace

The church, St. Michaels, is equally impressive with beautiful stained-glass windows, banners of all varieties, (embroidered, patchwork, cross-stitch), and the new tower structure, which  represents the crown of thorns. There were lots of exhibitions in the church as, a volunteer informed me, they were trying to involve the community more and show what sort of activities took place within the church.


St. Michael's Church, Linlithgow

We then found the start of the Forth and Clyde Canal, where I left The Walker, arranging to meet at yesterday's finishing point. It took me only 10 minutes less than him to cover the 3 miles! I had a tour of Falkirk! Fortunately, our later meeting point was easier to find but the campsite was virtually impossible! Roadworks for miles, signposts missing etc. meant it was not an easy drive - thank goodness I wasn't doing it!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  11.6 miles     :     Cumulative  947.3 miles

Bit of an upset to the linear nature of the tourism today! A shortage of camping sites in the area meant that we spent 2 nights at Beecraigs Country Park, near Linlithgow - hence the consecutive nights of blog-difficulty. That did, however, give us the chance to spend a couple of hours in the town this morning which it had been too late to do when I arrived on Sunday & which we'd never have fitted into a day which included the walk to Falkirk & all its trimmings! Method, after all.....

As I suggested I might, I added another 3 & a bit miles to the route by starting today's walk at the Carron Cut, where the Forth & Clyde Canal meets the Firth of Forth, & walking back to the centre of Falkirk (south-westwards!) before continuing the journey towards Glasgow. This short stretch raises the canal 118' through 15 locks, which helps to explain why the 11 locks which used to immediately follow to lift boats to the Union Canal were not particularly popular with bargees travelling to Edinburgh!
The 2 canals are, actually, quite different; the Forth & Clyde much wider & deeper (it was able to carry much larger shipping), & straighter because it uses locks instead of following natural contours.


Forth & Clyde Canal, west of Bonnybridge

Highlight of the Day: it was a good decision to visit Linlithgow Palace! Approaching the town it just looks like some ruin shoved behind the dominant St. Michael's Church. Far from it! This is a showpiece Palace built by Kings who appeared to have little fear of attack - even the drawbridge is believed to have been ornamental, while the wide spiral staircases sweeping up to the highest turrets allow up to 3 people to pass quite comfortably.


Carved detail from the Courtyard Fountain, Linlithgow Palace

The birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots, stands on a hill above a large loch (now used for water-sports & fishing) with a commanding view over the surrounding countryside & only approached in height by the modern church tower. When the Palace had a roof & was intact, it must have been a tremendous sight!

'Crown of Thorns', St. Michaels from Queen's Turret, Linlithgow Palace

Beer of the Day: failed in my attempts to find a real ale today so had to resort to my hidden stash of bottles under the bed! My search did, though, take me to 'The Rosebank', a huge converted warehouse on the bank of the canal at Camelon; my canal guidebook suggests visiting just to see the interior... it doesn't mention anything about trying their beer!
Back to Northumberland's Allendale Brewery for a bottle of 'Wolf' - dark amber, strong-flavoured & quite dry: not one of my favourites &, at 5.5%, you wouldn't want too many!


'The Rosebank', Camelon

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): didn't have one until putting on the music machine at the end of the day. Random-play quickly produced 'Clyde Water' by Nic Jones.... perfect!

Les was quite certain this large heron was a plastic joke placed by the canal.... until it turned to look at her!
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