We were up early to try to get some internet for the blog as it kept disappearing last night – and fortunately it worked for long enough to publish.
So a very late start for The Walker who had a long way to go! I had planned to take the latest shorts purchase back, but hey presto! Didn’t need to, as they fitted! So I had a new quest - to find him a very light waterproof as his wasn’t keeping out the rain. And I am pleased to report success straight away, so he will be keeping dry from now on!
Once again it was a smashing drive across a high moor to our new meeting place, Caldbeck. It was full of cars and buzzing with people when I arrived as the church had organised a “Garden Trail”. For £4 you could buy a map and visit 16 village gardens. My map was number 248 and I was by no means the last, so they raised well over £1,000!
Old Mill Garden, Caldbeck
Every garden was different - large and walled , small and informal, traditional, gravel with pots and a beautiful mill house stepped garden. The vicar Malcolm Riches had a super display of his photos -must google him as I think he may have had some published. Altogether a good day for the village.
From Bernie:
Back to the routine stuff; no visitors about & a full day’s walking to tackle across the last of the Lakeland Fells.
Skiddaw looking far from welcoming!
With the weather forecast good it was a bit disappointing to see cloud hanging low over Skiddaw & showing no signs of shifting, a situation which pushed me to my first decision of the walk which was to set out on the Eastern route to Caldbeck, around Skiddaw rather than over it! When they came into view, the Fells to the north were clearer so I aimed for them & ignored escape routes to the west.
Keswick, Derwent Water & the Derwent Fells from Latrigg Fell
Visibility below the banks of dark cloud was fine, it was very warm, tee-shirt weather, but rain was a constant threat & it was a bit of a surprise to see several people without backpacks wandering tracks 3-4 miles from any obvious car-park. In complete contrast were the 2 D of E groups I met who seemed to be carrying the whole world on their shoulders.... in more ways than one!
Sinister clouds rolling towards me on Lonscale Fell
The 3½ miles from Skiddaw Hostel to the old mines at Grainsgill Beck was the toughest stretch by far. Above the River Caldew & across waterlogged, boggy peatland, the recognizable track has been churned up into a virtually impassable mire by mountain-bikes; it’s a recreational path & I have no problem sharing it but I think the Park Authorities should be taking action to address such rapid erosion if permanent damage is to be avoided – alternative routes over the most vulnerable areas? Took me 1½ hours to walk this bit!
Glenderaterra Ghyll
Highlight of the Day: High Pike – at over 2000’ this is the highest point on ‘The Cumbria Way’ & the centre-piece of the Eastern route. Even in today’s conditions the views were phenomenal: a patchwork quilt of farmland, the Solway Firth & the hills of Galloway across the sea to the west... one of the ‘glimpses’ of the sea I promised when I left Barnstaple!
High Pike had been clear for much of the day but a lump of cloud decamped from Skiddaw & shuffled over the fells to reach the summit at much the same time as me – I briefly donned waterproofs & sat behind the stone shelter for my 2nd chocolate & cider stop of the walk!
High Pike summit
It’s all downhill to Carlisle from here & it seemed incredible that I’d crossed the Lakes so quickly. Reminded of the tiny brewery in Hesket Newmarket by ‘Doris’ 90th Birthday’ ale in Rosthwaite, I detoured to the village adding a couple of miles to the walk (sorry, Technical Team!) but the pub was closed until 6.00 pm!
Beer of the Day: had a pint of Jennings’ standard ‘Cumberland Lakeland Bitter’ at ‘The Oddfellows Arms’ in Caldbeck & preferred this to their Premium Ale. Dark amber with a rich flavour – good beer.Song of the Day (an occasional series!): ‘The Sky Above & The Mud Below’ – love the version of this Tom Russell song when he duets with Ramblin’ Jack Elliott.
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