Day 56 - Bowness-in-Windermere to Dungeon Ghyll

As The Walker could leave from the van today and we were staying on the same site, it seemed a good chance to spruce up the place, tidy away bits, sort papers and, of course, do washing. I did this all very leisurely, spending some time talking to a couple who have also just invested in a motor home.  It's interesting to see other lay-outs and compare vans! Perhaps that's what everyone does on caravan sites - I'd best be careful it doesn't happen too often.

Rain at lunchtime was quite heavy so I read up on places to visit next week and then the sun came out for the spectacular drive along Langdale to Dungeon Ghyll, our meeting place. We have been here a few times and it really is a beautiful valley; I can see why my brother thinks it's one of the best places in the Lakes.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  13.4 miles     :     Cumulative  713.2 miles

Left Bowness this morning in what the BBC web-page, updated 8 minutes earlier, described as heavy rain. My tee-shirt was adequate protection against the blue sky & fluffy clouds! The day's only shower happened when I was happily enjoying a pint in 'The Talbot Bar' of the Skelwith Bridge Hotel!

Bowness Steamer Pier

Got my Section 5 LeJog paperwork signed at Tourist Information before I set off & spent a while wandering along the empty steamer piers at Bowness - where do all those people go? In the event there was a bit more road-walking this morning than I really needed to do but I was enjoying walking beside Lake Windermere & was also quite impatient to be heading up Langdale, so I took the shortest route.

Looking towards Langdale Pikes from northern end of Windermere

Particularly enjoyed my first pub stop of the day at Waterhead, Ambleside. I've only ever been here before at peak holiday times & have always scurried away back to the hills but, today, the lakeside pub garden was almost empty & it was good fun watching kids trying to steer their 8 person kayaks without beating each other over the head with their paddles!

Lakeside Pub Garden at Waterhead

Into Langdale & my route followed the Beck, full of its own importance after the recent heavy rain. Skelwith Force was as impressive & scary as I've ever seen it; had my manager been walking with me she wouldn't have allowed me to scramble down the rocks for a photo, trying to fend off the tumbling water with my stick!

Skelwith Force

Another complimentary comment about my legs from a lady, albeit a few years older than myself! She was sitting by the river &, as I passed, she said, "I was just admiring your strong, sturdy, brown legs - I wish mine were as good." I didn't tell her that appearances can be deceptive! We chatted for a while then each of us hobbled off in opposite directions!

Highlight of the Day: Langdale was my dad's favourite spot in the Lakes &, after a day's walking, he & my mum would often brew up (tea, strangely!) at this point beside Eltermere, from where they could look out across the lake to Langdale Pikes. Lovely to see a young couple & their son feeding the ducks here & just about to sit on the same seat!

Dad's 'Brewery'!

Beer of the Day: tried a pint of 'Cartmel Racecourse Hurdler' from the Winster Valley Brewery - golden with a sharp hoppy bite. At only 3.5% this is very drinkable! I liked it.

At 'The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel' I met an American lecturer in British History who is conducting his own personal research into English beers. We exchanged notes - he appears to be in search of the perfect 'porter' but highly recommends an ale called 'Old Faithful'.... I must look out for it!

Harrison Stickle - Langdale

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): woke, yet again, to the sound of rain pattering on the van &, bizarrely, at 5.00 this morning, the old Lovin' Spoonful track 'Rain on the Roof' sprang to mind. It must have taken John Sebastian as long to write it as it did to sing it but I was suddenly transported back some 45 years! The song wouldn't go away until I got up to make coffee!

Di: I'm pleased that at least you realise I'm not drinking all this beer just for fun! The sudden rain seems to have taken wildlife a bit by surprise - hence my sheltering geese the other day! Whilst streams, rivers & moorland all seem awash, lakes & reservoirs don't appear particularly affected yet - maybe sea levels have risen!