We really must mention the lovely couple at the Gargrave campsite. They were so friendly and jovial. The owner hates to turn campers\tourers away and so the site was heaving by late Friday evening. It was a bit like a jigsaw puzzle fitting everyone on!
I was worried that we would be unable to park at Malham as it’s a very popular tourist spot. I have memories of it being manic with people and cars, which was in fact true of my return walk to the van. Ramblers’ groups, picnicking families, strolling couples, lone sightseers – you name them, they were all there! So it was good that we were up fairly early and walking by 9.45 – and, luckily, the Cove was deserted which pleased The Walker for his photos. The path over to Malham Tarn was superb – and I must look like a knowledgeable walker as, when on my own, 2 groups stopped to ask me for directions and to check they were on the right route.
Malham, a limestone pavement and half-way!
After worrying about parking at Malham , Horton-in-Ribblesdale should have been even more difficult. Luckily it was easy! This was only because it is Three Peaks challenge Saturday ; a couple of fields were opened for extra parking, otherwise it would have been a nightmare.
From Bernie:
Today's walk: 14.4 miles : Cumulative 650.8 miles
My guidebook declares this stretch to be 'the most stunningly beautiful part' of the whole Pennine Way but it also says of Fountains Fell that 'it carries the curses of many a lonely walker'! Looked like I was in for an interesting day!
Malham Cove
After yesterday's low-level stroll along the River Aire there certainly couldn't have been a greater contrast. From Malham, the picture postcard Dales village, on to the majestic cliff of Malham Cove & then the intriguing limestone pavements of the open moor - at this stage we were less than an hour into the walk but had already notched up our own milestone: halfway on LeJog! I'd been looking forward to this - if anything goes wrong now it's nearer to carry on than it is to turn back!
Next came the surprise of Malham Tarn: a couple of boats bobbing on waves conjured up by the strong wind blasting over the moor & the woods busy with young students from the Field Centre engaged in 'team-building activities' which seemed to involve a lot of mud & a lot of shouting! A surprise because of its size - for days the only large stretches of water I've passed have been man-made; ironically, the Tarn seemed to be full &, because of the way it nestles in a dip, its overflow stream appears to flow uphill! A strange optical illusion from whichever angle you look.
Malham Tarn
The track up Fountains Fell climbs over several false summits across the most remote terrain of the whole walk so far and the top is riddled with abandoned mine-shafts originally dug by the monks of Fountains Abbey, hence its name. A knee-jarring descent to the valley floor & what stands in the way? The 2,300 feet of Pen-y-Ghent!
Summit of Fountains Fell
Now, it's true that I could have gone round but I'm really glad I was daft enough to go over the top! More scrambling than on my last ascent &, with the wind up here even stronger, I found myself clinging to the rock on a couple of occasions. Erosion, old age or both?!
Pen-y-Ghent
Highlight of the Day: as I came down from Pen-y-Ghent I was mulling over which of all of these had been the 'Best' of the day - it turned out to be none of them! I didn't know it was 'Three Peaks Saturday' but it did explain the huge number of walkers I'd seen & it was brilliant to see the village of Horton packed with genuine walkers, many on their way to sign in at the end, many happily clutching certificates, many laid out in front of cafes & pubs & quite a few of them that I'd passed or who had passed me during the day. Every one a smiling face!
View from Pen-y-Ghent
Beer of the Day: really enjoyed my pint of 'Hen Harrier' at 'The Crown' in Horton. From the Bowland Brewery it has a strong, slightly unusual flavour... almost lemony - very refreshing.
Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Wild is the Wind' - lots of versions of this as well but for me you can choose between Nina Simone & David Bowie!
Wooden plaques from the National Trust Information Hut at Malham Field Centre
Long Blog this morning 'cos it's raining & I'm waiting for the cloud to lift!
No comments:
Post a Comment