Day 63 - Twice Brewed to Housesteads

A busy morning because The Walker didn't finish the blog last night; he was desperate to read his book (something about the political history of the '70s and Ted Heath - each to his own! This is a book Jamie and Kirstie bought him to read in hospital last year.). Anyway, the blog site was actually down this morning, so we just finished it all ready to post tonight.

We had planed to visit Vindolanda today and I was really lookng forward to it. It's a fantastic Roman site and I certainly didn't expect it to be so large. It lived up to all expectations; a "must visit" for anyone coming this way. The highlight of the day for us both.

 

One of the heated bathrooms in the military camp at Vindolanda

We then escaped the lunchtime rain in a pub before we drove to Housesteads, caught the AD122 bus back to where The Walker finished yesterday so that I could walk Steel Rigg with him. I wondered if anything could beat yesterday's views, they were so good - today's walk, though, just has the edge! A fantastic walk with great views.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  3.0 miles     :     Cumulative  789.0 miles

Now, this might look like a pathetic effort but, if you check the original itinerary, today was scheduled as a day off! Ended up walking far more than 3 miles as I easily slipped back into 'tourist' mode & became a Roman for the day! Technical Team need to note that I've added another 2 miles to the overall route... sorry!!

Good job I had my new waterproof....

Roman outpost village & archaeological excavation, pub, another high-level stretch of Hadrian's Wall & a finish at the most famous Roman fort of all - a good rest day!

Milecastle between Steel Rigg & Crag Lough

Bumped into our next-door neighbours from the camp-site above Crag Lough & their 2 spaniels; they were walking with their friend, Mike, from Kirkby Stephen & his collie. Amazingly, Lynnette & Gary live in Sudbury which is where Mike, also, originally comes from.... just a few miles up the road from us in Braintree! Mike's a teacher & would normally have been working today but for strike action by teaching unions against Government pension proposals. I was delighted to hear a group of men in a Carlisle pub the other day, clearly in the building trade, expressing their support for teachers in particular. Their argument was, 'Somebody's got to fight this & we should all be supporting them' . If you want professionals......

'Sycamore Gap' - apparently, this has appeared in lots of films!

Highlight of the Day: Vindolanda will be a highlight of the whole walk. I'd read of & seen TV programmes about the site but nothing can match visiting the remains of this huge Roman settlement. Tucked away in a valley below Hadrian's Wall &, now, barely visible from even its highest points, the excavated ruins alone are impressive; the collected artefacts in the excellent museum are quite amazing. My only complaint would be that some of the finest exhibits have been 'pinched' by the British Museum & all I got to see were replicas.... & I'd walked all this way to see them!

Impossible for a ground level photo to show the site properly - this is the best I can do!

Beer of the Day: 'Prince Bishop' from Newcastle's Big Lamp Brewery - sounds grander than it really is! Served surprisingly chilled, I found it a bit bland though it did improve as I worked my way down the pint... perhaps it warmed up a bit.

Very good day off but must put an end to all this trivia! Heading northwards tomorrow....

Technical Team: thanks for the snow photos - proves I'm not making all of this up!

Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

Limited Edition Comparison Shots!

Same spots on Hadrian's Wall, different scenario

Walltown Craggs

Christmas Day 2009 - Less of a view, more snow

Day 62 - Walton to Twice Brewed

Another fine morning and it looked as though it would be a smashing day but clouds came over in the early afternoon, bringing some rain and colder winds. It didn't spoil the day, though, and, after dropping The Walker, I drove along part of the Wall, probably having views comparable with anyone on the trail. It's a super drive - wouldn't mind being the AD122 ( Hadrian's Wall's bus) driver!

I parked the van at Once Brewed National Park Centre and caught the aforementioned bus to the Roman Army Museum. Here I watched a fantastic 3D film about being a Roman Centurion (not recommended) and wandered round the museum. It's pretty good having being completely refurbished over the winter.The lad at the till was keen to tell me that it was now nothing like last summer - so Jamie and Kirstie will have to revisit!

I joined The Walker for the last 6 miles along one of the best bits of the trail! Absolutely amazing views, fantastic remains of the Wall - it's a section you could walk again and again and not tire of it. This was definitely my highlight of the day!

Steel Rigg, Crag Loch & beyond....! From Winshields Crag

From Bernie:
Today's walk 16.3 miles     :     Cumulative 786.0 miles

It's a long walk from Carlisle along the 'Hadrian's Wall Path' before you see any bits of wall but when you do they come thick & fast & are very impressive! I’d walked part of this stretch 2 Christmases ago when we stayed near Carlisle & the hills were deep in snow – a completely different landscape today.... & we had views as well!

Walltown Quarry from the Crags

Met a group of 4 girls/young women from Coventry on the Wall at Bankside – the first substantial remains with views! They were on their way to Fort William to climb Ben Nevis tomorrow (Thursday) & had stopped at the wall ‘just for a look’. We started chatting about walking & they were very envious of my adventure (and my legs & my tan, I’m afraid, John!) ; one of them pointed out I’d been walking for  exactly 2 months, I hadn’t realised that. A quick look at the dates & I realised that, all being well, we’ll finish exactly 6 weeks today... the days seem to be going past quite quickly.

Hope they have good weather for Ben Nevis... it’s more than I’ve ever managed when I’ve had a spare day in Fort William!

Strode on happily for at least ½ mile after this before meeting a strange old man who giggled gleefully, ‘It’s goin’ to rain on ye!’ I blame him, totally, for the late afternoon downpour!

Sculpture on Visitor Centre at Walltown

Highlight of the Day: I can be a bit more precise than Les! Walltown Crags! The Crags themselves are visible from some distance, rising starkly from farmland to the south & rough, often boggy pasture to the north. The wall climbs from the old quarry & clings to the edge of the Crags as it rollercoasts its way along the ridge. Spectacular stuff! Brought the family up here on Christmas Day 2009 when the snow was above knee-deep in places – needless to say, we had the place to ourselves!

Walltown Crags

Beer of the Day: a beer with a tale! Popped into ‘The Samson Inn’ in Gilsland (named after a train!), a pub I’ve visited on a couple of walks in the past. Ordered a pint of ‘Samson Inn Ale’ & curious, as always, asked the barmaid about it. She didn’t think it was local but was brewed by somebody called ‘Maximus, or something’! She said that this brewery had just phoned one day & asked if the pub would like to give its name to a beer!

The only other people in the pub were a holidaying couple, a little older than me, who live in Durham but come, originally, from Sunderland. He was able to tell me that following the collapse of Vaux,  great brewing giant & sport sponsors in the north-east, a couple of ex-employees had bought the rights to some of their beers & brews & set up their own small brewery called Maxim, named after Vaux’s Premium Ale, ‘Double Maxim’. Apparently they’re doing very well!

As for the beer? They describe it as copper-coloured, not a description I’d ever thought of but, yes, it is. A gentle bitter bite – this is a good beer & not too strong. Had I not had a long way to walk I would have had another!

Wandered into yet another National Park, Northumberland, this afternoon and also rejoined ‘The Pennine Way’, unfortunately in similar weather to when I left it in The Dales! It runs alongside Hadrian’s Wall almost as far as Housesteads. Thereafter, I’ll be walking in the more sensible direction of northwards.... at least, for a while!

Les on Winshields, highest point of Hadrian's Wall

John: sorry to harp on about my legs & all these women but it’s nice to have the attention! As for the lager, I reckoned that one lager to every 99 ales or ciders is only fair if I am to keep my research totally objective & unbiased!

From what I’ve seen the Cricket hasn’t being going particularly brilliantly for either Yorkshire or Essex.... so thank goodness for England!

Les didn't take this to show off my legs but to show to the world what a caring manager she is! Concerned that my old light waterproof was far from what it claimed to be she went out & bought me a new one! Here I am, trying it out already!

Day 61 - Carlisle to Walton

Another lovely morning and we were away pretty smartish as we wanted to visit Carlisle Cathedral before The Walker set off. I had plans to walk later, which sadly never happened as I couldn't find anywhere to park the van safely. However, we thoroughly enjoyed the cathedral and, later, I was lucky enough to find an enthusiastic guide who explained why it has a blue ceiling with gold stars - unusual for a cathedral - and what misericords are; I'd heard of them before but couldn't remember!

I also managed to sneak into the Priory Tower which isn't normally open to the public, but the cleaning lady was there and she was proud to show me the magnificent 12th century paintings on the ceiling in the top room.

There's a lot more to Carlisle than most people think and I reckon I've only seen bits of it.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  11.9 miles     :     Cumulative  772.7 miles

Superb day - probably the best weather of the walk so far. Sunny & very warm all day (we've had those before) but today it lasted into the evening & I was reluctant to drag myself away from the barbecue & into the van to write the blog. I could have sat outside but it's too bright & sunny to see the screen!

The fourth time, I think, that I've walked either into or out of Carlisle & today was the first opportunity I'd had to visit the Cathedral. On two of my visits it was simply closed to visitors because of other sevices or events. This morning proved to be worth the wait!

Replica Victorian Post-box

To commemorate the fact that Carlisle, in 1853, was the the first location in mainland Britain to have a roadside pillar box

After the Cathedral I picked up 'Hadrian's Wall Path' (another National Trail!) & followed the riverside track away from the city. It sounds like an eastwards move but no, that's for tomorrow; today was definitely north-eastwards! Less than a mile from the city & I was walking through farmland beside the beautiful River Eden, Carlisle's major river... despite the fact that I'd followed the Caldew from High Pike all the way to Carlisle yesterday. It was the Eden that flooded & caused devastation here in January 2005 - some of the high-water markers I passed were above my head & very scary!

Rickerby Park on the River Eden - less than a mile from the city centre

Passed over the M6 for the third & last time, noting that I was less than 10 miles from Gretna & the Scottish border; I'm afraid it will be a few more days & several more miles before I broach the final frontier! Beyond this point it was a quest for a not quite traceable wall - bit like my search for Offa's Dyke in places! More seriously, I've walked this bit before & the wait is worthwhile... on this occasion I had the time to ponder the geographical siting of some of the original turrets - clever people, these Romans!

Witches' Cursing Stone

On my final approach to Walton I was passed by a runner who was promptly chased by a stampeding herd of heifers. He leapt over a famyard gate to safety & advised me not to go any further; I smugly, advised him that walking was much safer as I strolled, unmolested, between the marauding beasts!

Highlight of the Day: Carlisle Cathedral - chapels, windows, carvings, paintings.... I'll leave it to the pictures!

Beer of the Day: couldn't resist trying Wychwood's 'Hot Chocolate', probably because I usually like Wychwood ales. Dark, rich, not too sweet & with a ridiculous chocolate flavour! Wouldn't have wanted another &, I suspect, it might be better served in half-pint doses.

Loved this Fun Sculpture - part of Carlisle's 'Play Trail'

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): I hope I'm not being over-optimistic! 'Here Comes the Summer' by Fiery Furnaces - if you don't know the song it's not the one you think it might be!

Jamie: well-spotted! I might also add that it was John Peel's favourite track!

Graeme & Rachel: if you read this, Congratulations! Wishing you all the very best!

Helen & Corin: lovely to hear from you & thanks very much for the donation. Hope you are both well & do remember me to your Mum!

Kirstie: of course I knew that you knew the answer...... !

Day 60 - Caldbeck to Carlisle

We were on a farm last night and I really expected to be woken up by lots of animal noises, but the sheep were pretty quiet; maybe it was the fact that it was a very warm morning. The Walker was keen to go back into Caldbeck village to see the Howk Bobbin Mill and the church and I was able to be his guide. I chatted, again, to an 89 year old lady; I had met her yesterday as she was troddling along quite speedily with a wheeled-walker. We discussed the need to keep active and have a goal every day - a very sensible lady!

I reckon the road from Caldbeck into Carlisle must be Roman as it is very straight and quite wide, good for marching all those troops up from Londinium! I spent a fascinating afternoon at the Tullie Museum. There is a brand new exhibition called Roman Frontiers which was great and got me in the mood for Hadrian's Wall. The rest of the Museum is equally good - some bits about the railway, the history of Carlisle etc. Well worth another visit as there was so much to see - and the restaurant has yummy food!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  15.6 miles     :     Cumulative  760.8 miles

Remembered this stretch as being a bit dull from walking 'The Cumbria Way' a few years ago - nothing dull about today's walk... but that doesn't mean it was all good!

Caldbeck Village Green & Pond

Excellent start in Caldbeck & I was pleased to have the time to look around as on my previous visits I'd been rushing to catch buses; good finish in Carlisle, some 40 minutes ahead of schedule. The middle bit was rather less positive!

The pub at Bridge End had 9 or 10 drinks on draught including 2 ciders, 3 lagers, a European 'bier' & a handful of standard keg beers.... but they'd sold out of their only ale. No pork scratchings, no chilli nuts - the omens were not promising!

I'd seen a notice in the village telling me that White Bridge was closed because of 'doubts about the structural integrity of the bridge'! Why didn't they just tell me that it would collapse if I tried to cross it & I'd end up floundering in the River Caldew?!

Elected to follow the marked footpath on the eastern bank of the river thinking that would be the route followed by diverted 'Cumbria Way' walkers. Mistake!!! Back to thrashing about through waist-deep nettles, wading through mud & cutting a swathe through dense undergrowth for miles... & miles!
Occasionally I stumbled across a hidden footbridge or slid down buried steps... just to reassure me that  I really was on a footpath. No fun at all but certainly not dull!

Rose Castle - official residence of the Bishops of Carlisle

Highlight of the Day: thank goodness for Caldbeck! As part of my own personal industrial heritage trail I'd always wanted to visit the remains of the village's 'Bobbin' Mill, or Howk Mill, which did, indeed, manufacture bobbins! Sited in a limestone gorge at the edge of Caldbeck, it's a brilliant spot. Add to this the famous stained-glass windows in the church, the grave of John Peel of 'D'ye ken John Peel' fame, the Priest's Mill & St. Kentigern's Well.... superb start to the day!

Remains of Caldbeck's Bobbin Mill

Beer of the Day: didn't manage an ale until the end of the walk & opted for Yates' 'Solway Sunrise', brewed just down the road in Wigton. Golden, hoppy & with a slightly lemon zest; this was surprisingly refreshing - good!

Footnote: tried a bottle of 'Summer Lightning' yesterday evening - doesn't look as disreputable as the draught version but tastes equally fine. I do like this!

Windows in St. Kentigern's, Caldbeck

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Teenage Kicks' by The Undertones - a cryptic one! Answers on a postcard.... or via the blog!

Carlisle Market Cross & Old Town Hall

Day 59 - Keswick to Caldbeck

Apologies for the very late arrival of this blog - no internet, no phones.... had a nice evening, though! Depending on your time-zone you might have to work on the tenses from this point onwards...

We were up early to try to get some internet for the blog as it kept disappearing last night – and fortunately it worked for long enough to publish.

So a very late start for The Walker who had a long way to go! I had planned to take the latest shorts purchase back, but hey presto! Didn’t need to, as they fitted! So I had a new quest - to find him a very light waterproof as his wasn’t keeping out the rain.  And I am pleased to report success straight away, so he will be keeping dry from now on!

Once again it was a smashing drive across a high moor to our new meeting place, Caldbeck. It was full of cars and buzzing with people when I arrived as the church had organised a “Garden Trail”. For £4 you could buy a map and visit 16 village gardens. My map was number 248 and I was by no means the last, so they raised well over £1,000!

Old Mill Garden, Caldbeck

Every garden was different - large and walled , small and informal, traditional, gravel with pots and a beautiful mill house stepped garden. The vicar Malcolm Riches had a super display of his photos -must google him as I think he may have had some published. Altogether a good day for the village.

From Bernie:

Today’s walk  16.4 miles     :     Cumulative  745.2 miles

Back to the routine stuff; no visitors about & a full day’s walking to tackle across the last of the Lakeland Fells.

Skiddaw looking far from welcoming!

With the weather forecast good it was a bit disappointing to see cloud hanging low over Skiddaw & showing no signs of shifting, a situation which pushed me to my first decision of the walk which was to set out on the Eastern route to Caldbeck, around Skiddaw rather than over it! When they came into view, the Fells to the north were clearer so I aimed for them & ignored escape routes to the west.

 

Keswick, Derwent Water & the Derwent Fells  from Latrigg Fell

Visibility below the banks of dark cloud was fine, it was very warm, tee-shirt weather, but rain was a constant threat & it was a bit of a surprise to see several people without backpacks wandering tracks 3-4 miles from any obvious car-park. In complete contrast were the 2 D of E groups I met who seemed to be carrying the whole world on their shoulders.... in more ways than one!

Sinister clouds rolling towards me on Lonscale Fell

The 3½ miles from Skiddaw Hostel to the old mines at Grainsgill Beck was the toughest stretch by far. Above the River Caldew & across waterlogged, boggy peatland, the recognizable track has been churned up into a virtually impassable mire by mountain-bikes; it’s a recreational path & I have no problem sharing it but I think the Park Authorities should be taking action to address such rapid erosion if permanent damage is to be avoided – alternative routes over the most vulnerable areas? Took me 1½ hours to walk this bit!

Glenderaterra Ghyll

Highlight of the Day: High Pike – at over 2000’ this is the highest point on ‘The Cumbria Way’ & the centre-piece of the Eastern route. Even in today’s conditions the views were phenomenal: a patchwork quilt of farmland, the Solway Firth & the hills of Galloway across the sea to the west... one of the ‘glimpses’ of the sea I promised when I left Barnstaple!

High Pike had been clear for much of the day but a lump of cloud decamped from Skiddaw & shuffled over the fells to reach the summit at much the same time as me – I briefly donned waterproofs & sat behind the stone shelter for my 2nd chocolate & cider stop of the walk!

High Pike summit

It’s all downhill to Carlisle from here & it seemed incredible that I’d crossed the Lakes so quickly. Reminded of the tiny brewery in Hesket Newmarket by ‘Doris’ 90th Birthday’ ale in Rosthwaite, I detoured to the village adding a couple of miles to the walk (sorry, Technical Team!) but the pub was closed until 6.00 pm!

Beer of the Day: had a pint of Jennings’ standard ‘Cumberland Lakeland Bitter’ at ‘The Oddfellows Arms’ in Caldbeck & preferred this to their Premium Ale. Dark amber with a rich flavour – good beer.

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): ‘The Sky Above & The Mud Below’ – love the version of this Tom Russell song when he duets with Ramblin’ Jack Elliott.

Day 58 - Rosthwaite to Keswick

Another lovely day with family and friends.

We had plans for us all to walk today but the weather was diabolical this morning and by the time it cleared it was too late for the bus and for me to join them.

So while The Walker, Lee and Marion tackled another bit of The Cumbria Way' I enjoyed exploring the walking capital, Keswick. We were here at Christmas and I hadn’t been over-impressed with the place: lots of the shops were closed, perhaps as it was out of season.  However, I don’t think I had realised the size of it and, bustling with people, a large market in the centre and all the shops open, it is quite an attractive town. It is true, though, that every second shop sells some type of walking, cycling, climbing or outdoor gear and equipment. What a choice! Yes, I did succumb and bought yet more shorts for The Walker to try ( and some trousers for me!).

I visited a puzzle centre which is good fun and brain taxing. There are lots of optical illusions to wonder at – a popular tourist activity on a wet afternoon!

Best part of the day was meeting up with Ann and Alice ( my son-in-law’s mother and nan respectively) along with Rowan (Ann’s new puppy- he’s so cute and well-behaved!) for a meal in Threlkeld – pity it was too wet to barbecue!  Sadly we said goodbye to Lee and Marion and Ann kindly drove them to Penrith to catch the train home; we had loved having them and had a great time.

Ann, Alice, Les & Rowan - after our meal, which is why the ladies are looking contented & the unfed Rowan a little distracted!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  8.1 miles     :     Cumulative  728.8 miles

Yesterday's shortened walking day proved to be a blessing as it left us with an easy 3 hour waterside wander into Keswick, which was all we had time for after the horrible overnight & heavy morning rain! I wouldn't have been wanting to tackle the next leg, over High Pike, in today's conditions! So, 58 days in & back on schedule!

Stepping-stones on the Derwent where we were supposed to cross - luckily there's a bridge downstream!

When we finally got underway it was obvious that, like us, everyone else had been waiting for a break in the weather, though at least half of those we saw were engaged in activities involving boats, canoes or water generally! The most exciting looked to be something I could only describe as water-zorbing, if such a thing exists! Instead of rolling down a hill inside a ball these enthusiasts were rolling across the lake! Looked like great fun... if a little cold & wet!

Bay at the southern tip of Derwent Water

Descending to Grange I heard a growling & rumbling in the valley below, which I assumed to be something else to do with water-sports. Emerging from the trees I watched, in amazement, the tail-end of a convoy of Volkswagen camper-vans trundling through the village! Some looked incredibly ancient, others sparklingly new and I counted over thirty before the last ones came into sight - there must have been twice that number, at least. Goodness knows what mayhem they caused when they reached the narrow lakeside main road!

Never heard of these - wonder if there's one that goes to John o'Groats?!

Our walk along the western shore of Derwent Water was probably the busiest of the whole LeJog so far with dozens of families, Saturday-strollers & dog-walkers making the most of the gentle woodland paths before the next great veil of cloud & drizzle closed around the afternoon. Quite a few were using the hourly pleasure-steamers to hop around the lake, clockwise or anti-clockwise according to taste! These same boats we'd seen ice-bound when we were last here on Christmas Day & the lake was completely frozen!

'Princess Margaret' at Brandelhow jetty

Highlight of the Day: another set of visitors! I'm beginning to feel quite popular! It was great to see Ann, Alice & Rowan (the puppy!) before Alice whizzes off to Scotland tomorrow. Hmm.... seems like she'll get there before us! Along with Lee & Marion we all enjoyed an excellent meal at 'The Salutation Inn' (not Rowan, the puppy!).

Beer of the Day: appropriately 'Cumbria Way' from Hartley's Brewery in Ulverston. I've had this a couple of times before when I've been in the Lakes - a smooth, golden bitter with a gentle but surprisingly sharp aftertaste, it was served quite cool today: I like this!

'A Safe Pair of Hands' - created to mark the centenary of The National Trust in 2002. Wonderful sculpture even if I sometimes struggle to match its title with the organization...

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Zorbing' by Stornoway - describes a different kind of zorbing but how could I not be reminded of this after Derwent Water?

Jamie: Happy Birthday, Kid! Having failed to post this blog last night you might get Birthday Wishes twice if we have internet in Caldbeck tonight!

Pam: the trouble is that she's sometimes so far behind I can't see her!

Julia: water! Didn't you know it turns steel rusty? Just think what it does to your insides!

Ann: the manager's role in photography is purely administrative! She copies the pictures from the laptop to her Blackberry, changes the format & emails them to the blog (far too technical for me!). Only once has the signal been strong enough to upload them directly!