Day 8 - Wadebridge to Port Isaac

Superb morning, bright and sunny but still with that strong wind threatening to bring over the dark clouds in the distance. I wondered if it was a ghost camp site that we were on as we had seen only a couple of other campers amongst all the stored vans and I had to search out someone to pay. It was a very well maintained site, though.

 

 

Dropped Bernie off in Wadebridge and drove to Polzeath, where I parked in a large deserted grassy car park by the sea and Coast Path and watched lots of surfers. Three older ladies approached the van in wonderment and were keen to see inside it. They were very sweet and gave me a pound towards the charity.

 

 

One highlight of the day was the boa constrictor which was in my path as I walked to meet Bernie! Bit sad to discover it was only a slow worm - or so Bernie says-I didn't realise they had tongues like snakes!

 

 

 

 Les' woman-eating snake!

 

 

Another highlight was the arrival at our campsite for the night. We were greeted with a cup of coffee and a friendly chat by our hosts Jon and Terri - they do this for all their campers! They also donate their payment to charity if they have campers who are walking or cycling the SW Coast Path and so they have done this for us - what lovely people, I definitely recommend their site!

 

 

From Bernie:

Today's walk 17.9 miles : Cumulative 111.2 miles

Long stretch of road-walking around the Camel estuary at the start of the day & when I did try to escape the tarmac I became ensnared in overgrown or terminal footpaths around Rock - tough going. Leaving Wadebridge I did see a signpost indicating Port Isaac to be only 9 miles away.... I did say my route may be a little circuitous! Rock is less than half a mile from Padstow & reachable by ferry - I reached Rock about 24 hours after leaving Padstow......

 

 

Mouth of Camel Estuary - 'The Doom Bar'!

 

 

Reason for the diversion? To visit John Betjeman's grave in St. Enodoc's churchyard - my highlight of the day. Nestled behind dunes which once covered the site & situated disruptively in the middle of a golf course, with its tiny graveyard & twisted spire it's a wonderfully atmospheric spot worthy of a 9 mile walk!

 

 

John Betjeman's grave at St. Enodoc's

 

 

Moan of the day: modern cafe-style pubs - metal, glass, upstairs balconies & table service. I almost died of thirst waiting for my pint in Polzeath!

Beer of the day: another St. Austell ale, 'Tribute', a golden bitter. Good but I still prefer their 'Tinners'.

 

 

Thanks for messages from:

John (Swiss Bell): knees just about standing up to it! Weekend of reckoning for West Ham, I think - anything less than 3 points from Blackburn & I think you'll be playing my team next season... sorry!

Di (my sister): there are so many new flavours since I was here last.... my worry is that I'll be done with Cornwall before I've tried them all!

Kirstie: yes, you were looking for camels but that was a few years ago & I think you were probably just trying to wind me up!

Les at Port Isaac

(thought I should include this so you could see that we've both managed to survive living in the van together for a week..... )