Day 16 - Barnstaple to Poltimore Arms (near Brayford)

The day began well with beautiful sunshine, white fluffy clouds and a brilliant view over Bideford Bay. Discovered that Mrs Stagg has relations in Ipswich and keeps alpacas in the field behind us. There are 3 of them and she said they were birthday, Mother's day and Christmas presents from her family for the next 10 years. I knew their wool was expensive....

'appy alpaca

Once The Walker was on his way, after giving me the daily instructions - fill with diesel, buy 10 books of stamps (he writes postcards to each of our offspring every day!), meet me at Brayford at 3 pm - I was left to my own devices. I had decided to walk the Barnstaple Heritage Trail and become more acquainted with this town that I had, until yesterday, found crowded and pretty miserable; we only ever visited it on or around Kirstie's birthday in the middle of summer and always searching for presents for her - it was usually raining as well!

I started at the wonderful museum again, saw the elephant's tusks that were found here from the dim and distant past, wondered at the statue of Queen Anne, was amazed by mosaic that was created for the millennium, gazed at the fine buildings from different centuries and wandered along the cobbled streets. I decided that I really like Barnstaple and even if their castle is just a mound, I have judged it unfairly for many years!

Long Bridge, Barnstaple

From Bernie:

Today's Walk 16.3 miles : Cumulative 210.4 miles

A lot of uphill walking today, often along quiet lanes, as I climbed from the coast to the edge of Exmoor. I'd walked much of this before when I followed 'The Tarka Trail' a couple of years ago & was looking for a slightly different route - unfortunately most of the footpaths make a bee-line for the coast & there's not many west to east.

Highlight: chose my route so I could visit the village of Swimbridge, its church & its pub. Like Morwenstow, its reputation is founded on an interesting vicar! John Russell was vicar here for 47 years: he died in 1880. One of his claims to fame is the creation of the Jack Russell Terrier breed of dog. The village pub is opposite the church & is named 'The Jack Russell'. I arrived at opening time & several people were already outside taking pictures of themselves & their own Jack Russells!

The Church of St. James is also famous for its very impressive wooden carvings: screens, pews, pulpit - amazing.

Beer of the Day: 'Barum Breakfast' at 'The Jack Russell'. From Barnstaple's Barum Brewery, I found it a bit non-descript for a strong ale (5%). Perhaps I was too involved in the tourist bit!

Finished at 'The Poltimore Arms' just inside Exmoor National Park, a pub I've always wanted to visit - it was closed! Les was hoping for a cream tea here while she waited for me. Only a couple of miles from the Devon/Somerset border & then we'll have to give up the cream teas for cider....

Looking back towards the coast from the edge of Exmoor

Just read a brief report on the Cup Final & I think I made the right decision to go walking.... although we seem to have lost TV reception again anyway!

David: passed & crossed several golf courses en route so far. The most impressive was at the Trevose Club, west of Padstow. There was what looked like quite a big tournament going on, golfers going off in groups of 4 to the sound of loud announcements from the clubhouse. My route took me past the first tee where they drive over the road & a public footpath..... I waited!

St. Enodoc's I think is great because the golfers look so long-suffering... but patient. I'll try to think 'golf' in future blogs!

Kirstie: thanks for your second donation... I didn't know you did the lottery!