Day 33 - Knighton to Newcastle

What a lovely day we have had! Ian and Carol joined us early this morning. Carol walked all the way to Newcastle with The Walker and myself and Ian joined us for a couple of miles as well. We didn't miss the fantastic views even though we were catching up on a lot of family stuff as we walked! Carol had walked 22 miles for charity yesterday, so it was most impressive that she was still tripping up the hills easily! Pub was shut, unfortunately,  but we hastened back to 'The George and Dragon' at Knighton and had a tasty lunchtime meal.

River Teme at Knighton

We then shopped for barbecue food in Harry Tuffin's Supermarket - never heard of them before but it was an unusual place, a bit like a warehouse but still a shop. Maybe they are a popular store here but it was well disguised as just a small place. An Aladdin's cave!

Excellent barbecue to finish the day (after we had tested the pitch and putt on the campsite) and we were sad to see them go. Back to normality tomorrow!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 7.3 miles : Cumulative 416.4 miles

Newcastle, Shropshire, that is! I'm not in that much of a rush!

Run out of superlatives for the Offa's Dyke Path - good job I'm turning off in a few days! A few steep climbs this morning but the reward was the most impressive remains of Dyke & Bank on Llanfair Hill.

Teme Valley from Panpunton Hill

Ran into hundreds of sheep penned up on the track just before Llanfair Hill - fortunately, my experience as a sheep rustler proved invaluable & we survived the encounter. It's surprising how many lambs can be squashed into a backpack!

Had planned a lunchtime pub stop in Newcastle but with 'The Crown' closed & a lovely afternoon in prospect we gave way to temptation & returned to Knighton to shop for a barbecue - no, lamb wasn't on the menu!

Beer of the Day: Evan Evans Bitter from Llandeilo - curiously, the small brewery is owned by Simon Buckley, a descendant of yesterday's Reverend James! Smooth, pleasant but unremarkable.

Highlight of the Day: our end of the day banquet at Daisy Banks Camping Site! Welsh Dragon sausages (pork & chilli), chicken & beef burgers from Tuffins' butchers & peppered pork steaks. Some bottled 'Reverend James', 'Black Fox' cider & bubbly - need to be up early tomorrow to walk all of this off! Thanks to Ian & Carol, our second visitors - great to see you & to walk with you!

Trevor: thanks for the update & glad you & the boys are still with us!

Andy: having spent a week walking 'up' Offa's Dyke Path I'm inclined to agree with both you & Treebeard though the wind does seem to be pushing me up the hills now...

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Day 32 - Kington to Knighton

The rain finally came this morning; the forecast was for heavy showers virtually all day. The Walker kept reading forecasts from different nearby locations to see if their version was any better! We decided on the "heavy rain, clearing and brightening in the afternoon" which was absolutely correct! So I sent him on his soggy way and drove to Knighton to investigate the Offa's Dyke centre.

It's a small centre but has all the info you need about Offa and his Dyke. The best thing was the extremely helpful lady, who knew all about the path, the books, the weather and was delightful. I wish all people in information centres were so good.

When the rain looked as if it was going to clear I set out to meet The Walker - why should he have all the fantastic views?! Yes, we definitely will have to walk the trail properly, but which way? North to South or South to North ..... mmm need to think about that.

Walker met! Just below Hawthorn Hill

Hopefully another good campsite tonight - with fantastic washing facilities and a great view of hills! Looking forward to seeing Ian and Carol (my brother and his wife) tomorrow as they are joining us for a bit of Lejog!

Pam: thanks for today's message - hot stones are really relaxing and not painful at all. I wonder if they used them in Offa's day!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 13.5 miles : Cumulative 409.1 miles

I wouldn't have thought it possible but this trail is better by the day! A dismal start; I set off wearing waterproofs for only the second time since Land's End & it was late afternoon before they ended up in the backpack. The persistent rain, though, fell from quite high clouds & the views, though grey, were still impressive.

Village of Whitton in the Lugg Valley

Walkers I'd met en route had told me that the serious walking starts at Kington & after that it's tough! I'm not sure I'd agree with that - there are certainly a few more ups & downs but the new views at each summit more than compensate: the hardest thing for me was the slippery wet grass on uneven banks - played havoc with the old knees!

One for you David! Highest golf course in the country, according to my guidebook & on National Trust land above Kington. This is the Clubhouse, nestled in a hollow! Highest point of the course is 1284' &, when I crossed this morning, 4 young lads had just started their rounds in pouring rain!

I may be walking Offa's Dyke Path but today my route rejoined the Dyke after 54 miles wandering around the modern English-Welsh border - an impressive moment!

Offa's Dyke on Rushock Hill

Highlight of the Day: walking along the top of an earthwork constructed 1250 years ago. Earlier flirtations with Offa's Dyke had been unimpressive but rejoining the Dyke on Rushock Hill was one of the highlights of the walk so far. Seeing the bank winding high along the hilltop, no company but sheep & cloud & just enough visibility to give a tremendous sense of space & height. Magic!

... I even bought another tee-shirt at the end of the walk!

Beer of the Day: Last week's were a bit disappointing - this week's have been excellent! Sampled a pint of 'The Rev. James' in Knighton, now brewed by Brains in Cardiff but originally from the local Buckley's Brewery. Reverend James Buckley was a Methodist minister who married the brewery owner's daughter & really developed the family business...! Their Premium Ale, a dark bitter.... & very good!

Enjoyed the above pint in the 'George & Dragon' where locals were glued to TV coverage of the Championship play-off final - only a few yards over the border but every one a staunch Swansea man!


Song of the Day: Walking in the Rain - always liked this Jay and the Americans track.

View from our van this evening... just having a barbecue!

Day 31 - Gladestry to Kington

This was always going to be a short day, so didn't feel guilty taking things slowly this morning; The Walker was still on his way by 10.15 in uncertain mist and drizzle. I had been looking forward to walking Hergest Ridge as over the years I had read a couple of articles about the place, all linked to 'Tubular Bells'( a favourite of ours from our youth!) and was keen to see what all the fuss was about.

However, I nearly didn't get to the top as The Walker was too fast and instead of meeting me at the top of the ridge, I'd only just got started. So I walked on alone to the top and I am so pleased I did. Even in the poor weather the views were tremendous and the place felt very uplifting. I could understand what had inspired the music. Next time I will ensure I walk the whole ridge. Met a couple of dog walkers and runners tackling the walk in the wind and rain but they obviously thought it was worth it too!

An interesting note; the campsite owner has a small shop with the most incredible patchwork quilts, renovated furniture and other interesting hand-made items, which she and a friend sew and put together. A very talented lady indeed! Must get on with my cross stitch!!

Thanks Pam for the daily messages from Tenerife; I haven't cheated and am looking forward to opening tomorrow's message!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 4.5 miles : Cumulative 395.6 miles

I almost feel embarrassed about posting such a paltry mileage! I shouldn't - this is one of the finest stretches of the route so far. From the earliest planning days I'd been looking forward to Hergest Ridge &, with time in hand, I didn't need to rush to walk this in poor visibility. Yet, equally, I know I can't expect to walk all the best bits in perfect weather.

View south from just above Gladestry

Another wet & windy night, leaving lots of heavy cloud slowly rolling around this morning. I knew I'd need to walk somewhere; my knees are much better doing something & a walk to the local pub & back wasn't an option until at least midday! The ridge beyond our campsite was shrouded in black cloud but Hergest Ridge looked comparatively clear & I was, in any case, prepared to walk it again tomorrow if I was disappointed. I needn't have worried: the Ridge was clear, a strong wind pushed me along & the views, even through cloud, were spectacular.

Looking north from the Ridge, towards the rain

Happy to treat the rest of the day as a day 'off'. A couple of pints, a curry, catching up on walking notes, a doze in the van & then reading up on the next few days. Feels like a holiday!

Highlight of the Day: Hergest Ridge... from start to finish!

Summit of Hergest Ridge

Beside the Monkey Puzzle trees is a memorial seat to Nan Farrar. She died in 2006, aged 50; the same age at which I received my new heart valve - I felt very lucky & privileged to be there & to be doing this walk.

Tune of the Day (an occasional series!): can't look further than Mike Oldfield! I remember being slightly disappointed with the album after 'Tubular Bells' but I'm quite looking forward to listening to it again when I'm back home.

Worsell Wood - I think I need advice from my consultant geologist to put a name to this feature! But there's lots of them & this is unusual because it's wooded.

Beer of the Day: tried a pint of 'Harvest Pale' in Kington. It's from the Castle Brewery in Nottingham, so slightly out of the area but the only one they had that I hadn't already tried. The pump handle declares it to be a 'Supreme Champion - Beer of the Year 2010' & it is very good. Surprisingly 'hoppy' for a Blonde beer - hope I bump into this again!

Back to just one day ahead of schedule after today's laziness!

Di: not even many animals on Hergest Ridge, despite what my guidebook suggests! Met lots of people on their way up as I approached Kington but they were in for a tough time walking into the wind.... they must have been up very late this morning!

One of the people I met on my way down! Why is Les always wearing the same top in these photos? She assures me she washes it at least twice a day!

Day 30 - Hay-on-Wye to Gladestry

The Hay-on-Wye Festival is well worth visiting and it'll be on my list for a future trip (combined with walking some of Offa's Dyke).

Walked into the town in drizzly mist- did I mention a superb view from the camp site? Not today! Wandered around the attractive centre (with street entertainers) and castle grounds (with all types of stalls), where every second shop is a book shop. The Walker was overwhelmed by it all and left me to discover the rest. And what a discovery! There was a whole area devoted to the "alternative " festival called Howthelightgetsin - the philosophy and music bit instead of books. Very arty, but some bits looked really interesting and the live music being played in one of the tents was pretty good.

Walked to the real festival area and once again was surprised at how excellent it all was. Could have spent hours going round the book-signing areas and looking at all the other attractive, inviting stalls. Next time I'll book some events to go to and persuade some of the other family members that it would be a great place to spend a holiday!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 10.2 miles : Cumulative 391.1 miles

Woke to rain pattering on the roof & wind rocking the van - ventured out to the loo block & couldn't see the hedge at the end of the field. It felt good to have lots of miles in hand! Still had to sort out yesterday's blog but after wrestling with that & soaking up a couple of mugs of coffee the world began to look a bit more cheerful!

Good fun spotting 'old' Welsh County signs!

Walked into Hay from our campsite & wandered around the town centre shops & stalls - as Les has observed, it was all a bit too much for me! Too many people! I enjoyed the atmosphere.... & the Morris Dancers; it was great to see kids rummaging enthusiastically through books.... less attractive were the piles of tat for sale & overdressed visitors taking themselves far too seriously.

Honest, at least!

Resumed my journey about midday after a pint of 'Old Rosie' to boost my flagging spirit! Lovely afternoon walking, initially along the River Wye, then through farmland before heading out on to undulating high pasture & moorland. Drier, sunnier & warmer!

River Wye & Hay Bluff - the hills were yesterday's walk

Highlight of the Day: Disgwylfa Hill - last views back to yesterday's Black Mountain Ridge walk, the hills of Radnor Forest & Hergest Ridge ahead. A wonderful, open, high space.... with no people!

Western edge of Hergest Ridge - above Gladestry village

Beer of the Day: 'Brewer's Choice' from Golden Valley Ales in Peterchurch, Herefordshire; so, brewed just down the road from our campsite. Their Premium Ale & they describe it as 'fruity' - I'd go for smoky! Liked it, though!

Thanks to Mrs Price at Walton Court Campsite for the free night - I'll add it to the donations page.

Day 29 - Pandy to Hay-on-Wye

Sent The Walker on his way bright and early with "get out " instructions in case knees gave up or if today's trek was too far in one go. Those mountain roads are not suitable for the van and I only want to go on them if absolutely necessary! Chose the "Golden Valley" route to Hay-on-Wye - a superb drive with fantastic views but I am not sure, once again, if you would see them all in a car, though not all the hedges were high. Pulled out of a turning and was promptly caught up by a police car - I reckon he was driving too fast as he caught up with me so quickly! I politely let him overtake as I was going a lot slower.

National Park started just past the entrance to our campsite

Neighbours from Cornwall had spent the last 4 weeks touring Wales and had had horrendous weather; rain every day. They were setting back for home - Cornwall is desperate for rain, just like you lot in Essex!

(Actual depicton of LeJog Technical Support Team's lawn)

Hay-on-Wye was really busy as the festival is on. Had only just started exploring when The Walker turned up - 3 hours early! So will leave exploration until tomorrow, as we thought a barbecue was the order of the day! And what a campsite, with a view to die for ( but only one loo and shower!)

From Bernie:

Today's walk 17.5 miles : Cumulative 378.9 miles

This had been one of the day's walking that I was most concerned about on the whole expedition. 17.5 miles along a ridge of the Black Mountains with no easy alternatives should the weather change or my knees give in. In the event the winds were as calm as on any day since we left Land's End, though I must admit to feeling one drop of rain!

A superb walk! Valleys tumbling away to the west & a huge plain reaching out to the Malvern Hills in the east.... it appeared to be raining there!

Upper Pentwyn Farm, last building before the Ridge!

Tough climb out of Pandy, steepest since the Quantocks, but then a surprisingly easy stroll along the ridge & a much easier & gentler descent to Hay than contours on the map suggest.

Trig Pillar, Hatterrall Ridge

Highlight of the Day: some will know how much I love walking on my own & the fact that I usually avoid conversation en route - today was a delightful contradiction! Met a gent, Steve, from Holland on the hill above Pandy & we walked together all the way to Hay. Exchanged stories about families, walking adventures, the Champions League Final & various other topics. We walked at a similar pace (he was kind enough to wait for me on the downhill stretches!), the miles flew by & we were both surprised to reach Wye hours ahead of schedule!

All the best, Steve: hope the rest of Offa's Dyke goes well! Thanks!

Photos didn't come out too badly, after all!

Honddhu Valley

Beer of the Day: ordered a pint of 'Blue Boar' at the 'Blue Boar' in Hay-on-Wye, imagining it to be some interesting local brew. Discovered that it comes from the Hyde Brewery in Manchester! A very drinkable IPA nonetheless - enjoyed it!

Welsh Mountain Ponies high above Llanthony Abbey

Suddenly 2 days ahead of schedule - unsure whether to spend time investigating the Hay Festival tomorrow or whether to wander onwards.... I have a feeling we'll probably do both!

Pam: wind eased, done the 'up', there's only 'onwards' to go!

Day 28 - White Castle to Pandy

Woke up to rain this morning, but we had expected this and The Walker was pleased he had engineered a short walk for today. So, a lazy start, which even included breakfast - a first for him as he usually likes to just walk on coffee, biscuits, cider and chocolate bar!

The lady in the White Castle kiosk, Margaret, was worried that The Walker was late starting today. Had spent some time chatting to her yesterday - she has worked in this remote place for 15 years! A bit of a family business, as her daughter works there for 2 days a week as well.

Sad news today - the faithful shorts which have seen at least 8 years of walking came out of the washing with a small, but noticeable hole! I wondered how to break it to him; I mean, these shorts have been on the Coast-to-Coast, the Great Glen Way, the West Highland Way and have been to all the Scottish Islands! I am sure he will insist on wearing them until it becomes a big hole, so they may well see the Brecon Beacons and probably some of the Peak District if they can hang on that long.

Pam will be pleased to know that the Van is all perky and clean inside, washing done and windows wiped. Not sure about tackling the complete outside of the Van - we're too big for a car wash and a lot of sites forbid you to wash them there. Oh well, at least we can see where we are going.

An early blog today - looking forward to a restful evening!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 5.5 miles : Cumulative 363.4 miles

Pencilled in as a 'day off', today's short walk was quite important in the grand scheme of things! The next leg is the lengthy stretch over the Black Mountains to Hay-on-Wye which, really, has to be done in one go: I have escape routes in case the weather or my knees let me down but, juggling with the forecast & distances, I didn't want to be faced with a 23 mile trek. And, if all goes well, we'll arrive in Hay at the beginning of their Festival & with a day still in hand!

Start of tomorrow's walk - Hatterrall Ridge

Used the short walk to start breaking-in a new pair of boots which I might need towards the end of the whole walk. They're OK but not ready for hilly 14+ mile walks yet!

Lovely 13th century church in the tiny village of Llangattock-lingoed with this impressive wall-painting of St. George & the Dragon.

Highlight of the Day: Clouds!

Wild, blustery, squally & the clouds scudding overhead were wonderful.... much better than the rain! On setting out the skyline was pale & washed-out, filled with puffy, watery clouds which were quickly replaced by huge white clouds billowing across a blue sky; towards the end they were dark & brooding, rumbling & tumbling over the Black Mountains. I tried to capture all of this on my camera but they just look like..... clouds!

Black Mountains from White Castle

Skirrid

Beer of the Day: 'Butty Bach' - a good golden bitter from the Wye Valley Brewery, sampled at 'The Old Pandy Inn' less than 100 yards from our van! Best draught ale, as opposed to cider, I've had for quite a few days.

Tune of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Both Sides Now' by virtually anybody or 'Stop That Train' (see yesterday's post!) - my preferred version is by Keith & Tex, though I do have several others.

Nicola: great to hear from you & thanks for the donation. Hope all's going well with Year 11 - your life must be a breeze now they've left!!??!!! No - I haven't forgotten!


Julia: it wasn't market day in Monmouth yesterday but it was very busy - loads of school kids, who'd obviously had a GCSE exam earlier! I'd never been before- lovely town.