Wednesday 3 August 2011

Day 96 - Embo to Golspie

Heavy rain was forecast for last night and we were a bit concerned as we were on a grass pitch in a dip - the ground felt a bit soggy in places already! We awoke to a lovely morning with no rain having materialised during the night, thank goodness. Tonight we are by a different golf course and by the sea again, but on a hard standing, so the rain will be no problem.

It was lovely today to set off walking along the coast path; there was a fresh breeze and even when it began to rain, it wasn't cold at all. There were lots of ladies playing golf in the rain, obviously very keen - only a couple had umbrellas. I remembered Golspie and visiting the rock and precious stone centre - Kirstie loved this (being a young geologist); we both have small rock thermometers bought from here!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  10.3 miles     :     Cumulative  1213.0 miles

Thought I was through with railways but had forgotten today's brief stretch of the old Dornoch Light Railway. The manager had followed part of its route when she walked above Dornoch's golf course to meet me yesterday; I used its firm trackbed to cross the marshland behind the dunes between Embo & Skelbo - very handy when it comes to avoiding the A9 & other roads!


Coul Links from the old railway

All very quiet & saw no-one except a couple of joggers & some local dog-walkers until the point at which the back-road reaches Loch Fleet..... & then, mayhem!

Highlight of the Day: Loch Fleet! I've walked here before. It's a huge tidal estuary & along with the surrounding hills & woodland it makes up the Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve.
Mayhem, because as well as the hundreds of seals that can always be seen basking on its sandbanks, a small group of dolphins were playing in the deeper waters, chasing each other in circles & breaking the surface in their leaps. Virtually every passing vehicle stopped.... & this on a single-track road!
Ironically, the best views of Loch Fleet, particularly inland, are to be had from the A9 causeway which speeds over the estuary on an elevated section. There is a parking area here with picnic tables which were packed with the occupants of 2 coaches: one German, the other Italian. Sadly, despite the views, they were unaware that the real spectacle lay over the road & a mile down-river!


Loch Fleet from the seaward side of the A9

Soon back into woodland on the northern shore of the estuary & its a surprise to pass Littleferry's National Go-Kart track.... & this in a Nature Reserve! No stranger, I suppose, than cement works & quarries in National Parks!


Littleferry from the southern shore of Loch Fleet

Approaching the coast across the southern end of Golspie's golf course I could see the manager waving in the distance - she'd chosen a bad time to come & meet me! The hills had already disappeared under cloud, rain was beginning to fall & I knew I was going to have to put on waterproofs for the first time in over 3 weeks. Unfortunately, the 5-day forecast doesn't look particularly promising so that might curtail some of my possible 'detours' - we'll have to see.


Loch Fleet - looking inland

Looks like Tuesday is Ladies' Day at Golspie, either that or the local men are not up to playing in the rain! To a non-golfer, this looked easier than Dornoch: equally undulating but shorter grass & fewer wild patches of rough - there are one or two interestingly-placed clumps of trees, though!


Loch Fleet - looking inland

Beer of the Day: a bottle of Black Isle's 'Yellowhammer' with the evening's excellent garlic & chilli burgers from Fraser's in Dingwall (highly recommended!). I've had this before & do like it: golden, light & fruity - very drinkable!


Loch Fleet - looking inland

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Dolphins' by Tim Buckley - the long live version; I think it's on his 'Dream Letter' album

8 days to go!
Things we're looking forward to doing when we get home (Walker): having a coffee-maker produce the early-morning refreshments!

Jamie & Andy: How much!? You'd better have a good excuse for donating such a huge amount! No wonder you've left the country!

Ann: the 3rd Test should start as I'm making my way up the coast from Nybster to John O' Groats on our very last day, so I'm hoping I'll be home to see some of that! As for red wine, keep an eye on 'Things we're looking forward to......'!

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