In fact I wished I'd had gloves on and winter trousers when we walked out to Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. The wind was howling, though the sun did try to shine occasionally. The Walker was impressed by the work to save the castle that had been done since he was here last, however, he was less impressed with the path to Sinclair Bay. I decided to return to the van after battling for a short distance through waist high ferns, nettles and grass whilst being only a foot away from the cliff edge. Well, one of us needs to be in one piece! It was much nicer walking along the beach to meet him at Keiss.
Noss Head Lighthouse
Another friendly group of locals were in the hotel bar at Keiss; one chap had lived and worked in and around Scunthorpe for a number of years, so we chatted about lots of places we both knew and the steelworks there. He expected me to know loads of pubs, though - I was too young to go into them, I left when I was 18.
It's sad to think that tomorrow will be the last walking day. We are camping at Dunnet Bay and I can see a wide expanse of sea, beach and dunes from the window. It's really windy; there's massive waves rolling in and the van is rocking gently now and again. I shall certainly miss this.
From Bernie:
Today's walk 8.8 miles : Cumulative 1285.0 miles
Absolutely brilliant day's walking, including an unbroken stretch of 4 miles along the finest beach in Caithness, with the weather just about on my side - still managed to get a soaking, though!
Wild & windy out at Noss Head; the very conditions that almost destroyed the few remains of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe, family seat of the Sinclairs - the Earls of Caithness & also of Orkney (we visited their castle in Kirkwall a couple of summers ago). Archaeological excavation & restoration work going on here & they're doing an excellent job. When I was here on the 'coastals' everything was crumbling into the sea, fallen stones littered the site & most of the building was too dangerous to enter - now half is open to visitors & the tower itself is almost secure. Wonderfully atmospheric spot & best viewed, I'm sure, with waves crashing into the rocks!
Castle Sinclair Girnigoe
Much drier & easier cliff-top section than yesterday but the manager's right, it is a little overgrown! Soon rock-hopping along the southern shore of Sinclair's Bay towards Ackergill Tower; this, too, was shored up with scaffolding on my last visit & undergoing major restoration - now it's advertised as a 5-star Scottish castle, 'one of the worlds most sought after exclusive use retreats'! Well, I got in the back way, for nothing!
Sinclair's Bay
Highlight of the Day: Noss Head, Castle Girnigoe, cliff-top & beach..... it could all have ended in disaster! Half-way along Sinclair's Bay a river races through the dunes & cuts a channel to the sea; this is the outflow from the Loch of Wester, a large expanse of water about a mile inland which drains rainwater from the surrounding moorland via a vast network of burns. You'll have noticed that we've had a lot of rain in recent days & the river was racing through the sand, stained deep brown with peat.
The highlight was actually being able to cross! The alternative was a massive retreat & a long stretch of dull road-walking or a tricky, marshy walk over the northern end of Ackergill Links golf course. Luckily (partly planned!), it was almost low tide - I wouldn't have stood a chance had the sea been any higher. The river wasn't quite waist-deep but I did get a wet bum! Good thing these new whizzo shorts the manager bought are quick-drying!
Outflow from the Loch of Wester - last hazard of LeJog?!
This river had been foremost in my thoughts ever since setting out this morning & once over, (or through!), I could enjoy the emptiness as I aimed for yet another castle, the ruins of Keiss. Too windy even for seabirds, my only companions were a couple of wind-surfers bouncing up & down the Bay.
Brave wind-surfer!
Beer of the Day: not quite sure how Palmer's 'Dorset Gold' turns out to be the only ale available in a Caithness bar but at least they had one! Very fruity flavour, almost tastes like they couldn't decide between hops & apples - pleasant enough but a bit sweet for me.
Old Keiss Castle & Sinclair's Bay
Song of the Day (an occasional series!): haven't had a Neil Young song yet so how about 'On the Beach' or even 'Cowgirl in the Sand'? Not sure that in either case he was writing about the kind of things I experienced today!
Glen & David: glad you stuck with us all the way & pleased you enjoyed the journey!! Many thanks for the kind donation!
David, you'll have to let us know how you get on playing golf up here - hope you don't spend as much time in the sand as some of the golfers I've seen over the last week!
Jamie & Andy: the cheque's in the post! Sounds like you're having a great time!
Ann: I can't wait to read it again to remind me what I did & to find out if I got there!
Pam: hope the weather improves for your holiday. Thanks for everything!!
PS - with your stories about fairies I was quite hopeful for the washing-up.... but it's still there this morning!
1 day to go!
Things we're looking forward to doing when we get home (manager): being in one place for more than one day!
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Happy last day walking and well done to the walker and the manager! Lots of love from Chris and Sarah xxxxxx
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