Day 101 - Lybster to Thrumster

Heavy rain clattering on the van at 5.30 this morning woke me up; The Walker said it had been raining heavily most of the night. So there was no rush to set off today as the only let-up in the wet weather was, according to the forecast, going to be this afternoon but that, if it happened, would only be for a couple of hours. It was exactly right and this evening's weather is a repeat of the morning.

When I dropped The Walker off at Lybster Harbour, we both walked up to look at the burn, which was only a trckle yesterday,but was  now raging with water. I then went into the Waterlines Heritage Centre which seems to be more interested in being a cafe. It did have a few interesting geological displays upstairs and some local history - I always like that. There was a cool camera so that you could watch the area around outside from inside the centre. I played with this for quite a while (I was the only visitor, everyone else was eating cake in the cafe part!) watching the sea, the cliffs and zooming in on the sea gulls. Great fun.

Reisgill Burn, Lybster

From Bernie:
Today's walk  11.3 miles     :     Cumulative  1266.2 miles

Coldest & wettest day of the whole LeJog! Wore a sweatshirt & my waterproof all of the walk, a first for both.... still shorts weather, though!

Lybster Harbour

Amazing how quickly a landscape can change; even on moorland tracks here the ground is usually spongy to the tread but after 12 hours of heavy rain lakes have appeared from nowhere, streams flow freely over farmland & rough pasture alike, rivers have become fearsome torrents. Stuck to back lanes & the A99 today - the 2 short cross-country stretches looked totally unnavigable!

Another one of those sculptures! I'd have missed this if I'd gone splashing across the moor!

As noted, I'd planned that the final 30 miles or so would all be along cliffs & beaches which is why I'd allowed a generous 3 days; if this weather persists, as is forecast, we'll just have more time for touristy stuff! Already pencilled in a visit to the Old Pulteney distillery tomorrow to use up the last bits of 'time-in-hand'!

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): camped on the banks of the Wick River tonight &, hopefully, tomorrow! Dylan's 'Down in the Flood' would seem hugely appropriate (Sandy Denny used to do a cracking live version) & if you don't hear from us tomorrow, we may be!

Highlight of the Day: Wick & the castles of Sinclair's Bay are still ahead but today's walk took me to the highlight of this whole final section & a piece of Industrial Heritage which matches anything on the entire walk - Whaligoe Steps!
Built in 1792, this flight of 365 steps was hewn out of a 250' high, almost vertical cliff down a treacherous route to reach a seemingly inaccessible fishing station.

Looking down the Whaligoe Steps

Its name comes from a quirk of tides & currents which often saw dead whales (old age!) washed into the inlet. Enterprising locals rigged up pulleys & winches to haul butchered carcasses to the top of the cliff & from here an industry was born. As a fishing station the most significant catch was herring but salmon & crabs were also important.
At its height 20 boats worked out of this tiny inlet & giant schooners were reversed alongside 'The Bink', a raised level platform used for fish-processing, to export produce on a large scale. The remains of the salthouse can still be seen on 'The Bink' as can the cooperage at the top of the cliffs. If you look carefully you can still spot winches, eye bolts, barking kettle, fire grille, holes which held the poles for net-drying & even small niches which held oil-lamps to enable work to continue in the dark!

Whaligoe - the green patch at the bottom is 'The Bink', now grassed-over

This is an absolutely tremendous place, a gem not to be missed if you're ever in this part of Scotland; I'd been before but never at high tide, which was why I was determined to tackle the steps again today despite the weather. Tourist info suggests the steps can be slippery in wet weather but they are very well-maintained & perfectly safe if you're careful!

Whaligoe - imagine 20 fishing boats here.... or a loading schooner!

I was lucky to meet & chat to David Nicolson who 'looks after' the steps & he was able to tell me stuff about Whaligoe that I didn't know. He made a kind donation to the BHF & then raced me to the pub (he was in a car!) where he bought the manager & me a drink! Met his cousin who announced that they have relatives in Braintree! Another cousin, called Danny Watson, who is a teacher.... this seemed to come as a surprise to David!

Beer of the Day: 'Goliath' from Wychwood - a very English beer! An amber, malty bitter - good, like most of Wychwood's beers..... though I still haven't quite got over that 'Hot Chocolate' on Day 61!

David: thanks for your generosity & kind hospitality - your donation will be added as soon as I can get the JustGiving page to work! Internet a bit tired tonight!

Julia: if the weather allows I still have a couple of superb beaches to go &, if I can finish over the Duncansby Stacks cliffs, there are usually seals about there.... but I doubt they'll be as obliging!

Ann: checked the weather again on Monday morning & the update looks a bit brighter - must have heard I'm on my way!

3 days to go!
Things we're looking forward to doing when we get home (manager): cooking 'real' meals in a big kitchen!

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