Day 59 - Keswick to Caldbeck

Apologies for the very late arrival of this blog - no internet, no phones.... had a nice evening, though! Depending on your time-zone you might have to work on the tenses from this point onwards...

We were up early to try to get some internet for the blog as it kept disappearing last night – and fortunately it worked for long enough to publish.

So a very late start for The Walker who had a long way to go! I had planned to take the latest shorts purchase back, but hey presto! Didn’t need to, as they fitted! So I had a new quest - to find him a very light waterproof as his wasn’t keeping out the rain.  And I am pleased to report success straight away, so he will be keeping dry from now on!

Once again it was a smashing drive across a high moor to our new meeting place, Caldbeck. It was full of cars and buzzing with people when I arrived as the church had organised a “Garden Trail”. For £4 you could buy a map and visit 16 village gardens. My map was number 248 and I was by no means the last, so they raised well over £1,000!

Old Mill Garden, Caldbeck

Every garden was different - large and walled , small and informal, traditional, gravel with pots and a beautiful mill house stepped garden. The vicar Malcolm Riches had a super display of his photos -must google him as I think he may have had some published. Altogether a good day for the village.

From Bernie:

Today’s walk  16.4 miles     :     Cumulative  745.2 miles

Back to the routine stuff; no visitors about & a full day’s walking to tackle across the last of the Lakeland Fells.

Skiddaw looking far from welcoming!

With the weather forecast good it was a bit disappointing to see cloud hanging low over Skiddaw & showing no signs of shifting, a situation which pushed me to my first decision of the walk which was to set out on the Eastern route to Caldbeck, around Skiddaw rather than over it! When they came into view, the Fells to the north were clearer so I aimed for them & ignored escape routes to the west.

 

Keswick, Derwent Water & the Derwent Fells  from Latrigg Fell

Visibility below the banks of dark cloud was fine, it was very warm, tee-shirt weather, but rain was a constant threat & it was a bit of a surprise to see several people without backpacks wandering tracks 3-4 miles from any obvious car-park. In complete contrast were the 2 D of E groups I met who seemed to be carrying the whole world on their shoulders.... in more ways than one!

Sinister clouds rolling towards me on Lonscale Fell

The 3½ miles from Skiddaw Hostel to the old mines at Grainsgill Beck was the toughest stretch by far. Above the River Caldew & across waterlogged, boggy peatland, the recognizable track has been churned up into a virtually impassable mire by mountain-bikes; it’s a recreational path & I have no problem sharing it but I think the Park Authorities should be taking action to address such rapid erosion if permanent damage is to be avoided – alternative routes over the most vulnerable areas? Took me 1½ hours to walk this bit!

Glenderaterra Ghyll

Highlight of the Day: High Pike – at over 2000’ this is the highest point on ‘The Cumbria Way’ & the centre-piece of the Eastern route. Even in today’s conditions the views were phenomenal: a patchwork quilt of farmland, the Solway Firth & the hills of Galloway across the sea to the west... one of the ‘glimpses’ of the sea I promised when I left Barnstaple!

High Pike had been clear for much of the day but a lump of cloud decamped from Skiddaw & shuffled over the fells to reach the summit at much the same time as me – I briefly donned waterproofs & sat behind the stone shelter for my 2nd chocolate & cider stop of the walk!

High Pike summit

It’s all downhill to Carlisle from here & it seemed incredible that I’d crossed the Lakes so quickly. Reminded of the tiny brewery in Hesket Newmarket by ‘Doris’ 90th Birthday’ ale in Rosthwaite, I detoured to the village adding a couple of miles to the walk (sorry, Technical Team!) but the pub was closed until 6.00 pm!

Beer of the Day: had a pint of Jennings’ standard ‘Cumberland Lakeland Bitter’ at ‘The Oddfellows Arms’ in Caldbeck & preferred this to their Premium Ale. Dark amber with a rich flavour – good beer.

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): ‘The Sky Above & The Mud Below’ – love the version of this Tom Russell song when he duets with Ramblin’ Jack Elliott.

Day 58 - Rosthwaite to Keswick

Another lovely day with family and friends.

We had plans for us all to walk today but the weather was diabolical this morning and by the time it cleared it was too late for the bus and for me to join them.

So while The Walker, Lee and Marion tackled another bit of The Cumbria Way' I enjoyed exploring the walking capital, Keswick. We were here at Christmas and I hadn’t been over-impressed with the place: lots of the shops were closed, perhaps as it was out of season.  However, I don’t think I had realised the size of it and, bustling with people, a large market in the centre and all the shops open, it is quite an attractive town. It is true, though, that every second shop sells some type of walking, cycling, climbing or outdoor gear and equipment. What a choice! Yes, I did succumb and bought yet more shorts for The Walker to try ( and some trousers for me!).

I visited a puzzle centre which is good fun and brain taxing. There are lots of optical illusions to wonder at – a popular tourist activity on a wet afternoon!

Best part of the day was meeting up with Ann and Alice ( my son-in-law’s mother and nan respectively) along with Rowan (Ann’s new puppy- he’s so cute and well-behaved!) for a meal in Threlkeld – pity it was too wet to barbecue!  Sadly we said goodbye to Lee and Marion and Ann kindly drove them to Penrith to catch the train home; we had loved having them and had a great time.

Ann, Alice, Les & Rowan - after our meal, which is why the ladies are looking contented & the unfed Rowan a little distracted!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  8.1 miles     :     Cumulative  728.8 miles

Yesterday's shortened walking day proved to be a blessing as it left us with an easy 3 hour waterside wander into Keswick, which was all we had time for after the horrible overnight & heavy morning rain! I wouldn't have been wanting to tackle the next leg, over High Pike, in today's conditions! So, 58 days in & back on schedule!

Stepping-stones on the Derwent where we were supposed to cross - luckily there's a bridge downstream!

When we finally got underway it was obvious that, like us, everyone else had been waiting for a break in the weather, though at least half of those we saw were engaged in activities involving boats, canoes or water generally! The most exciting looked to be something I could only describe as water-zorbing, if such a thing exists! Instead of rolling down a hill inside a ball these enthusiasts were rolling across the lake! Looked like great fun... if a little cold & wet!

Bay at the southern tip of Derwent Water

Descending to Grange I heard a growling & rumbling in the valley below, which I assumed to be something else to do with water-sports. Emerging from the trees I watched, in amazement, the tail-end of a convoy of Volkswagen camper-vans trundling through the village! Some looked incredibly ancient, others sparklingly new and I counted over thirty before the last ones came into sight - there must have been twice that number, at least. Goodness knows what mayhem they caused when they reached the narrow lakeside main road!

Never heard of these - wonder if there's one that goes to John o'Groats?!

Our walk along the western shore of Derwent Water was probably the busiest of the whole LeJog so far with dozens of families, Saturday-strollers & dog-walkers making the most of the gentle woodland paths before the next great veil of cloud & drizzle closed around the afternoon. Quite a few were using the hourly pleasure-steamers to hop around the lake, clockwise or anti-clockwise according to taste! These same boats we'd seen ice-bound when we were last here on Christmas Day & the lake was completely frozen!

'Princess Margaret' at Brandelhow jetty

Highlight of the Day: another set of visitors! I'm beginning to feel quite popular! It was great to see Ann, Alice & Rowan (the puppy!) before Alice whizzes off to Scotland tomorrow. Hmm.... seems like she'll get there before us! Along with Lee & Marion we all enjoyed an excellent meal at 'The Salutation Inn' (not Rowan, the puppy!).

Beer of the Day: appropriately 'Cumbria Way' from Hartley's Brewery in Ulverston. I've had this a couple of times before when I've been in the Lakes - a smooth, golden bitter with a gentle but surprisingly sharp aftertaste, it was served quite cool today: I like this!

'A Safe Pair of Hands' - created to mark the centenary of The National Trust in 2002. Wonderful sculpture even if I sometimes struggle to match its title with the organization...

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Zorbing' by Stornoway - describes a different kind of zorbing but how could I not be reminded of this after Derwent Water?

Jamie: Happy Birthday, Kid! Having failed to post this blog last night you might get Birthday Wishes twice if we have internet in Caldbeck tonight!

Pam: the trouble is that she's sometimes so far behind I can't see her!

Julia: water! Didn't you know it turns steel rusty? Just think what it does to your insides!

Ann: the manager's role in photography is purely administrative! She copies the pictures from the laptop to her Blackberry, changes the format & emails them to the blog (far too technical for me!). Only once has the signal been strong enough to upload them directly!

Day 57 - Dungeon Ghyll to Rosthwaite

Exciting day today as Lee and Marion were joining us for a couple of days walking. Picked them up at Windermere station at 8.45 and we were walking by 10. The weather was behaving and we thought we would be lucky, as did many other walkers as we only just managed to get a parking place in  Dungeon Ghyll near to a big, old,dilapidated, and possibly abandoned library van. An odd thing to be in a National Trust car park

We have walked here quite a few times before so we had lots of discussion about when and which route we had taken, each of us remembering different bits! It is an amazing dale with fantastic views and I walked most of the way up the Stakes Pass with them and then returned to fetch the van.

Lee, Marion & Les - intrepid walkers about to tackle the climb to Black Crags!

I was a little late meeting them - partly as it took an hour  and a half to drive around the valleys, but mainly because of a gentleman appearing from nowhere as I was changing my boots and wanting to look at our van. He told me he lived in the Library van and was renovating it - and would I like to go in and have a look! I was curious, but being cautious I just stood at the door and peered round. It still had library shelves in, but also a Romany fire which was going to have a chimney. It was massive inside with a long skylight  and folding glass doors at the back. I don't think I would like to live in there permanently.

We had an excellent barbecue, even though it was a bit chilly and we are all hoping for good weather tomorrow to complete the walk to Keswick. The campsite is at Castlerigg, looking down over the town and Derwent Water - great views.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  7.5 miles     :     Cumulative  720.7 miles

A shorter day, as have been all our days with visitors - it's all the socialising, eating & drinking that come with them!

Couldn't believe the number of walkers preparing to leave Dungeon Ghyll at the same time as us, probably as many as I've seen in total over the last fortnight! Maybe nobody works on Fridays anymore! In almost equal numbers they headed down Langdale for Elterwater or strode off in the direction of Scafell. Just 2 couples chose the same route as us & we soon left them behind - I was grateful for that! I think this walk is making me enjoy solitude even more, a feeling emphasised by the bustle of Keswick at the end of the day.

A last, fond look down Langdale!

A lot of work has been done on the path out of Langdale for Stakes Pass since I last walked it (even has a signpost now!) & it makes the climb much easier. The National Trust are currently working on the descent to Langstrathdale under the delightful slogan, 'Fixing the Fells'!

Langstrathdale from the head of Stakes Pass

So, yesterday it was Ian's & my Dad's favourite bit of Lakeland; today it was mine! The sudden view down Langstrathdale from the northern end of Stakes Pass is majestic & the climb down beside waterfalls & water-slides quite unrivalled.... but then there's the walk above Wastwater, or the view across Derwentwater towards Blencathra from Cat Bells.....!

Stake Beck tumbling down to the Langstrath

Highlight of the Day: walking with Lee & Marion - great to see you both! When we started LeJog I wasn't really sure that we'd have any visitors, now we've had 4 lots & those who have walked have seen some of the best bits of the whole trek... as well as enjoying some of the best eating & drinking!

Beer of the Day: unless you head for the Lakes in the next day or so there's not much chance of you tasting this & that's a pity. 'Doris' 90th Birthday' - a never to be repeated special from the tiny Hesket Newmarket brewery near Caldbeck. Dark amber, smooth & another ale to lure me to 2 lunchtime pints!

'The Riverside Bar' at 'The Scafell Hotel' was also the 100th different pub I've visited on this expedition. The first time we were here was on the Coast-to-Coast in 2003 on the day of the annual Borrowdale Fell Run, won by Simon Booth; we saw from the plaque in the bar that he won it again last year.... & has done so on all but one of the intervening years!

Looking back up Langstrathdale

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Lost in the Supermarket' - The Clash! After a wondrous day on the Fells I'm not sure how I coped with barbecue-shopping at Booth's supermarket.... it's the people, you know!

The manager knows how to pick them! View from tonight's camp-site at Castlerigg

Day 56 - Bowness-in-Windermere to Dungeon Ghyll

As The Walker could leave from the van today and we were staying on the same site, it seemed a good chance to spruce up the place, tidy away bits, sort papers and, of course, do washing. I did this all very leisurely, spending some time talking to a couple who have also just invested in a motor home.  It's interesting to see other lay-outs and compare vans! Perhaps that's what everyone does on caravan sites - I'd best be careful it doesn't happen too often.

Rain at lunchtime was quite heavy so I read up on places to visit next week and then the sun came out for the spectacular drive along Langdale to Dungeon Ghyll, our meeting place. We have been here a few times and it really is a beautiful valley; I can see why my brother thinks it's one of the best places in the Lakes.

From Bernie:
Today's walk  13.4 miles     :     Cumulative  713.2 miles

Left Bowness this morning in what the BBC web-page, updated 8 minutes earlier, described as heavy rain. My tee-shirt was adequate protection against the blue sky & fluffy clouds! The day's only shower happened when I was happily enjoying a pint in 'The Talbot Bar' of the Skelwith Bridge Hotel!

Bowness Steamer Pier

Got my Section 5 LeJog paperwork signed at Tourist Information before I set off & spent a while wandering along the empty steamer piers at Bowness - where do all those people go? In the event there was a bit more road-walking this morning than I really needed to do but I was enjoying walking beside Lake Windermere & was also quite impatient to be heading up Langdale, so I took the shortest route.

Looking towards Langdale Pikes from northern end of Windermere

Particularly enjoyed my first pub stop of the day at Waterhead, Ambleside. I've only ever been here before at peak holiday times & have always scurried away back to the hills but, today, the lakeside pub garden was almost empty & it was good fun watching kids trying to steer their 8 person kayaks without beating each other over the head with their paddles!

Lakeside Pub Garden at Waterhead

Into Langdale & my route followed the Beck, full of its own importance after the recent heavy rain. Skelwith Force was as impressive & scary as I've ever seen it; had my manager been walking with me she wouldn't have allowed me to scramble down the rocks for a photo, trying to fend off the tumbling water with my stick!

Skelwith Force

Another complimentary comment about my legs from a lady, albeit a few years older than myself! She was sitting by the river &, as I passed, she said, "I was just admiring your strong, sturdy, brown legs - I wish mine were as good." I didn't tell her that appearances can be deceptive! We chatted for a while then each of us hobbled off in opposite directions!

Highlight of the Day: Langdale was my dad's favourite spot in the Lakes &, after a day's walking, he & my mum would often brew up (tea, strangely!) at this point beside Eltermere, from where they could look out across the lake to Langdale Pikes. Lovely to see a young couple & their son feeding the ducks here & just about to sit on the same seat!

Dad's 'Brewery'!

Beer of the Day: tried a pint of 'Cartmel Racecourse Hurdler' from the Winster Valley Brewery - golden with a sharp hoppy bite. At only 3.5% this is very drinkable! I liked it.

At 'The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel' I met an American lecturer in British History who is conducting his own personal research into English beers. We exchanged notes - he appears to be in search of the perfect 'porter' but highly recommends an ale called 'Old Faithful'.... I must look out for it!

Harrison Stickle - Langdale

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): woke, yet again, to the sound of rain pattering on the van &, bizarrely, at 5.00 this morning, the old Lovin' Spoonful track 'Rain on the Roof' sprang to mind. It must have taken John Sebastian as long to write it as it did to sing it but I was suddenly transported back some 45 years! The song wouldn't go away until I got up to make coffee!

Di: I'm pleased that at least you realise I'm not drinking all this beer just for fun! The sudden rain seems to have taken wildlife a bit by surprise - hence my sheltering geese the other day! Whilst streams, rivers & moorland all seem awash, lakes & reservoirs don't appear particularly affected yet - maybe sea levels have risen!

Day 55 - Burneside to Bowness-in-Windermere

I started the day by booking campsites up to next Monday night because I was concerned that the pitches with electric hook-ups would all be gone as it is holiday time. Weekends are a problem as the sites near the walk are often popular places, especially in the Lakes. We could, of course, wild camp, but we do like a bit of luxury - a good shower, nice toilet facilities and, of course, we need electric for the computer. We may be able to blog on battery soon as Lee is bringing a new one on Friday - hope it fits! Tomorrow I will be looking for sites around Hadrian's Wall - can't really believe that by next Monday we will be starting there; I am really looking forward to it as Jamie and Kirstie walked it last summer and have told us how fantastic it is.

I explored the centre of Bowness-in-Windemere (mainly still looking for shorts!) and there are lots of eating and drinking places, outdoor clothing and souvenir shops. It was crowded with foreign visitors, who had come on the numerous coaches parked by the lake. I hadn't expected it to be quite so busy on a Wednesday in the middle of June but it was heaving! Obviously, they have all come to the famous Beatrix Potter Centre - I'm not sure I can go in without a child in tow!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  10.0 miles     :     Cumulative  699.8 miles

Great to be back walking in tee-shirt weather but I couldn't escape the irritating showers - too heavy to ignore but too warm for even the lightest of waterproofs!

First half of the walk was beside the lovely River Kent, reputedly the fastest-flowing in England. I've walked beside its source on High Street, way up in the Lakes, & along its banks where it finally empties into Morecambe Bay at Arnside but never along this middle section where it rushes towards the sea. Full to the brim after all the recent rain, this was a brilliant walk.

Cowan Mill complex on the River Kent - now residential but a working mill as recently as the early 1990s

Paused briefly in Staveley at the excellent 'Eagle & Child' pub for early refreshment, after all my criticism of pubs in the area I finally found one that opens at 11.00am! I'd never heard this legend but maybe I've led a sheltered life...!

I love legends like this! It leaves you wondering what really happened....

Highlight of the Day: my approach to Bowness was, actually, quite momentous! It marked my entry into yet another National Park, The Lake District; I completed 'The Dales Way', though I had walked the first half in snow a couple of Easters ago; it completed Section 5 of LeJog one day ahead of schedule & started me thinking about 'The Cumbria Way'; it marked my arrival at England's largest lake - a day of highlights, really!

Beer of the Day: I don't like lager but tried a pint of 'Lakeland Lager' at Staveley's 'Eagle & Child' as it's brewed in the village & the tasting notes on the pump sounded promising. I still don't like lager but could drink this in an emergency. A valiant piece of research carried out to show my open-mindedness & total lack of bias!

Proper Beer of the Day: actually, not much better! Had a pint of Moorhouse's (Burnley) 'Blond Witch' in Bowness - light & rather bland but with a little more flavour than the lager.

First glimpse of Lake Windermere from above the crowds of Bowness

Stuart: but are you watching the series that shoots off over the Irish Sea & then wanders around the islands? You might be in Scotland but you may never get to John o' Groats! I'd like to be able to say I'm walking as fast as I can but there's so many interesting things that keep getting in the way!

Tomorrow's Lakeland Fells

Day 54 - Sedbergh to Burneside

Rain didn't stop play! Heavy downfalls last night woke us both up a few times. We were up a little later and completed the blog ready to send, should we have internet at any time during the day.

I spent a short while in Sedbergh, visited the Fairfield factory shop which produces individual fleeces and gilets - very nice  - and then drove on to Kendal. Once again the ride is through beautiful countryside and it's a bit of a shock when you arrive in the town.

I don't remember Kendal at all, though The Walker tells me I have been a few times; it was far bigger than I expected it to be and it was extremely busy for a Tuesday afternoon, or maybe I'm just not used to lots of people. The shopping centre seemed pretty good - well it had an ok M & S where I could return the over-sized shorts, but they had run out of the £10 meal deal!

For Pam, who thinks I may not be feeding The Walker, we had lamb shanks, potatoes and green beans for tea and the highlight of my day was a fellow camper who was amazed at the queue to wash the pots and did his lot in 7 minutes - army training, he said!

From Bernie:
Today's walk  17.0 miles     :     Cumulative  689.8 miles

One of those early mornings when the drumming of rain on the van roof makes you wonder whether a cup of coffee will really be suitable reward for getting out of bed; then the knees begin to hurt so much you fear that if you don't get up you might never move again! Once out of bed & moving about you wonder what all the fuss was about....! Sounds like many a working day I vaguely remember!

The heavy rain was forecast to continue well into the afternoon but with a short stretch scheduled for tomorrow & still with a day in hand it didn't matter too much. In the end I'm really glad I walked today. I tinkered with the route: chopped a couple of corners & added some loops along country lanes to keep my feet dry. There were 4 or 5 heavy but short-lived showers & the brisk breeze had dried out most of the farmland by mid-afternoon.

 

Crossing the M6 again! OK, so it's quicker & drier by car!

I was passed twice by one particular gent in his car. On the first occasion I was descending to Beck Foot & had to squeeze into the dripping hedge to let him pass; he stopped to chat & he, too, was wearing shorts & walking gear though he admitted that on his walk above Yorkshire Bridge he'd been wearing wellies! On the second occasion he was showered, changed & much smarter but still stopped to ask me about my route & where I was picking up the Dales Way. A trivial incident ... but the only person I saw or spoke to all day!

 

Lune viaduct at Beck Foot on the old Ingleton - Tebay line

 

 

Highlight of the Day: Peter Thompson's Tuck Shop! Just off the farm track at Grayrigg are 2 cool boxes & a plastic hamper filled with goodies for the Dales Way walker.... along with an Honesty Box. Peter's raising funds for a World Challenge Trip to Kenya in 2012 & I thought this was a superb idea!

Beer of the Day: what kind of a walk is the Dales Way? Not a single pub on today's 17 mile leg & the pub in Burnside was closed! Resorted to my accumulated bottled collection for Thwaites' 'Double Century' - brewed to mark 200 years of family brewing. Golden, smooth, quite strong-flavoured & good... but this felt like a bit of a cheat as I've had this lots of times before.

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): when I finally stumbled out of bed this morning (7.10am), pressed play on the kettle & plugged in the iPod, the first tune to appear on random play was Morphine's 'You Look Like Rain'! I almost got back into bed!

 

Would you like to share our tree...?

Janice: really pleased that you finally managed to get through! The weather has been a bit challenging over the last week or so but often the forecast has been a bit more daunting than the reality - we have to remember that, like a tent, it sounds worse from the inside!
Pub performance has been quite interesting - as we've progressed northwards into areas that I think of as 'walking country', opening times have been more erratic (or non-existent) & often seem to be at the whim of the publican. It's a good job I always have my can of cider & chocolate for sustenance!
Hope to hear from you again - the comments give us something else to think about other than the rain!

Peter Thompson: if you picked up the blog address I left in your Honesty Box, along with a small donation, I wish you all the very best. I didn't sample your wares, preferring my can of cider, but was grateful for the place to sit & shelter from a shower. My eldest daughter went to Pakistan with World Challenge some 11 or 12 years ago & had a great time.

 

A similar idea a bit further on at Burton Hill - maybe it's to compensate for the shortage of pubs!

Julia: we're members of the Caravan Club & the Camping & Caravanning Club - Les is using their books + Cade's guide & the internet when we have it..... & still my manager struggles to find me accommodation! The difficulty we're finding is where the symbols in the books don't correspond to the facilities offered or where sites are listed in the books but are full of statics & don't really want tourers. But, hey, it's a manager's job to sort that!

Jamie's wall is coming along nicely!

 

 

Day 53 - Cowgill to Sedbergh

A beautiful morning! This wasn’t forecast, I’m sure! Dentdale looked superb and all the campers were up early enjoying breakfasting in glorious sunshine – just like in all those picture ads!

I was early for the lunch time check-in with The Walker; we were meeting at ‘The George and Dragon’ in Dent. The bartender was really friendly and had been brought up here, so could tell me a lot about the surrounding area.

The cobbled streets of Dent & the superb ‘George & Dragon’ pub!

Dent is a quaint little village with cobbled streets and it’s a bit like going back in time. Everyone here can’t do enough for you – a bit different from Sedbergh, pronounced “Sed-ber”, where the Tourist Info Office was closing at 2.30! To be fair, though, the lady did look very stressed and said she was short-staffed so had to close. This did used to be a Yorkshire National Park Centre, but now belongs to the town – I didn’t enquire as to why that had happened, but it can’t be good if they can’t keep it open.

A quick moan about campsites that aren’t! They really shouldn’t be on maps or in books if they are always full of “season” caravans and never have any spaces for real tourers! Pinfold in Sedbergh never has any pitches for them but is listed as a caravan and camping site!

From Bernie:
Today’s walk 9.7 miles : Cumulative 672.8 miles

A gentle, easy day’s walking through Dentdale, following the River Dee to Garsdale. Wonderful warm sunshine, excellent pub stop & a relaxing late afternoon barbecue to finish – felt like a holiday!

I walked past The Dent Brewery (see Beer of the Day!) in Cowgill at the end of yesterday’s walk &, again, at the start of today’s without realising it was there! The barman at ‘The George & Dragon’ said that was hardly surprising as there are no signs & it’s so tiny that if you get 2 brewers in there at the same time there isn’t room to turn around!

Village of Dent nestled below Great Coum

Beer of the Day: The Dent Brewery produces 8 ales & ‘The George & Dragon’ had 4 on tap in addition to other beers! I had 2 pints (unusual for a lunch stop) of ‘Kamikaze’ & suspect I may have found a new ‘Best Beer of LeJog’! Full-bodied, hoppy, fruity &, at 5%, quite strong. Available via the internet, I think I’ll be looking into this when I get home!

Didn’t buy the tee-shirt but only because they didn’t have one in my size – bought a fleece instead!

Beer & Folk Festival this weekend in Dent, a major rival to Glastonbury(!), & no doubt, the local ales will be flowing! Judy Collins & Eliza Carthy topping the bill. Locals are looking forward to the business but they’re also saying they’ll be glad when it’s over......!

Leaving Dentdale along the ridge connecting it to Garsdale

Finished the day in Sedbergh, a small Cumbrian town yet curiously within the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Life here seems to revolve around its large & quite famous public school – Will Carling was a student here, as was Adam Sedgwick in the early 19th century; Sedgwick was born in Dent & will be well-known to my geological advisor if not to the rest of you!

Adam Sedgwick Memorial Fountain in Dent Village, carved from a block of Shap granite

Two closed pubs, another without cider & 2 of its ales & a Tourist Information office closing at 2.30 – I didn’t feel as charitable as Les towards the ‘stressed’ lady!

Highlight of the Day: despite my slightly negative reaction to Sedbergh, today’s highlight was undoubtedly ‘The Sedbergh Embroidery’ – 2 panels created by local women depicting the history, landscape & social background of the area on display in St. Andrew’s Church.

The Sedbergh Embroidery

Curiously, Sedbergh also has a Folk & Beer Festival this weekend! I think we’ll be safer out of the area!