Thursday 22 September 2011

Alfriston - Sussex

Our post-LeJog 'holiday' break & we've headed to the south, staying at Norman's Bay near Pevensey Bay, just 50 yards from the beach..... well, Les said she wanted to come to the seaside!
This bit of the Pevensey Levels was actually underwater in 1066 so they won't have landed exactly here but it is believed they came ashore somewhere nearby; we're close to a couple of Martello Towers so this must have been terra firma by the end of the 18th century.
Quite renowned for its place in smuggling history & the link with local pubs, I'll return to that later....!

Lovely first morning so we thought we'd better go for the lot just in case this turns out to be the best day! Attractive village, South Downs, rolling farmland, woods, spectacular cliff-top, gentle riverside, Country Park & a couple of fine pubs - hard work these holidays!


14th century Church of St Andrew, Alfriston - known as 'the Cathedral of the Downs'
Nearby is the original vicarage which, in 1896, became the first property ever bought by the National Trust
Les was quite keen to visit but we'll be back here in a few days with a shorter walk on the agenda




Brilliant spot to walk from with a network of paths quickly & easily leading on to the Downs
Should have taken containers to pick blackberries, the bushes here are still hanging heavy with fruit, though not quite sure what we'd have done with them in the van. Lots of sloes about, too - bit of a contrast with last Sunday's sparse offerings in Derbyshire
Above: Rathfinny & Rachfinny Farms, neatly-sited on the chalky Downs



Seaford Bay & the entrance to Newhaven Ferry Port from South Hill. Hadn't walked here since a very wild, wet & windy day on the 'Coastals'. Another sharp contrast!



Highlight of the Day: what a place for a cider & chocolate stop! I remember, at Junior School, being made to learn & recite the names of each of the Seven Sisters & the hollows between them... but that's at least 50 years ago! Other than Birling Gap at the end & Belle Tout lighthouse above it, I'm struggling... though I think Les was impressed even with that!


Much photographed view of the coastguard cottages at Cuckmere Haven backed by the chalk cliffs
Built by the navy in 1818, they became a coastguard station in 1840 &, in World War II, were frequently attacked by enemy bombers & fighter planes
This route, up the River Cuckmere to Alfriston, was what the early 19th century militia sought to block to smugglers. They had limited success until c1830 when Stanton Collins, leader of the notorious Alfriston gang, was convicted of sheep rustling & transported to Australia


My birthday today so I took Les out for a meal at lunchtime & then bought her a cream tea at 'Ye Olde Smugglers Inn' at Alfriston. Here I am at the 'Golden Galleon', Exceat Bridge, trying to remember what we did on her birthday 3 weeks ago!

Beer of the Day: seemed a bit strange to be served a pint of Nethergate's 'Essex Border', brewed just down the road from us in Pentlow! Golden & very drinkable, like several Nethergate beers I've tried this is stronger than it tastes!



Our return to Alfriston took us past the Litlington White Horse - it seems that little is known of its origins other than that it was first cut in the middle of the 19th century & this is a replacement, dating from the 1920s!



Back in Alfriston & only time to sample 1 of its 3 interesting-looking pubs - despite its name 'Ye Olde Smugglers Inn' is excellent &, given that it was once the home of Stanton Collins, can probably be forgiven!
Interesting Footnote: Eleanor Farjeon was living in Alfriston in 1931 when she wrote the well-known 'Morning has Broken'


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