Day 45 - Snake Pass to Crowden

Not wishing to get behind with the blog or schedule, The Walker was up, showering, coffee making and blogging all before 7 am. The weather forecast was for heavy rain from lunchtime, so he wanted to, at least, reach Crowden, which is only a short walk, and then review the situation.

The drive along the Snake Pass and down into Glossop is lovely and, fortunately, I was behind a cyclist who was racing downhill at over 35 mph; there was no way of overtaking him on the narrow road so I could cruise down slowly and enjoy the view.

By the time I had found the meeting place the rain had started and looked set in for the day. So , once at the campsite, we did a bit of sorting of all the new maps, post, books etc. brought to us yesterday and we are all set for a cosy night in! Bring on the wine and the DVDs!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 6.8 miles : Cumulative 572.8 miles

Being fast asleep, the Expedition Manager is unaware that the Walker was showered by 6.00 am & the coffee & biscuits ready by 6.30. Sounds ridiculously early but it was a beautiful morning; not a cloud in the sky, birds singing & the sun streaming in through the van windows. It was, however, only 3.5 degrees outside & I was pleased that I'd put some heat on in the van overnight otherwise I wouldn't have been so keen to leap out of bed!

With a huge belt of rain sweeping across the country there was no way I was going to avoid a drenching. The Pennine Way & a huge expanse of open moorland lay ahead so it seemed sensible to make a quick dash over into the next valley, hopefully before it became too wet, & then wait for the rain to pass through.

Bleaklow Head.... appropriately named!

The plan was mostly successful. I was past half-way at Bleaklow Head when the light rain started & almost down to Torside reservoir when it began to take itself seriously! With a huge grey blanket of cloud folding around me I couldn't help but be amused by the OS map - I was descending from Shining Clough Moss!

Picking up the stream at the top of Torside Clough

Highlight of the Day: the walk along Clough Edge - in good weather the views would be absolutely stunning; a chain of 5 reservoirs runs along the valley bottom with a 6th just beyond the delightfully named village of Tintwistle. Even in the rain this was impressive stuff!

Looking down Torside Clough - very wet!

Beer of the Day: no pub visit today so I finished my last bottle from the Woodland Brewery in Nantwich. 'Oak Beauty'; described as having a taste of acorn! Not sure about the attraction of that: its use as an advertising ploy or the actual beer.... rather ordinary, I thought.

Torside Reservoir from the end of Clough Ridge

5.00 pm now & I'm still waiting for 'the rain to pass through'! The van has been rocking in the wind, the rain drumming on the roof & I've put the heating on again. Good job we have a Lamb Byriani to look forward to! Oh well, back on schedule & tomorrow is supposed to be a day off - let's hope the sky will be empty by then.

Nicola: good to hear from you again! It might sound daft but Eve's red GCSE Exam Timetable is still at the top of my box with all my daily walking notes in & I've been checking it to see who's been doing what! Fingers & everything else crossed for Billy, 11U & the rest of Year 11 - looking forward to seeing them all again. With regard to your 'new' year group, I have very fond memories of my old Year 9s..... !!

Day 44 - Edale to Snake Pass

Definitely the best day! It was absolutely super to see Jamie, Andy and Kirstie. I had really been looking forward to catching up with their news ( honeymoon, half-term jaunts and school life!) and we even had time for " girlie" chats on the walk! The weather was kind to us; the views were splendid and the company excellent. What more can I say - except hope you weren't too late back and thanks to Kirstie for all that driving and keeping awake!! Looking forward today to home-made Byriani, picnic slice - courtesy of Jamie and Andy - followed by refreshing elderflower cordial - Jamie and Kirstie's half term venture!

Visitors & back-up team about to tackle Jacob's Ladder

From Bernie:

Today's walk 9.2 miles : Cumulative 566.0 miles

Another National Trail!

The first time that 3 different pubs have been a big feature of the day but I promise we didn't spend all day drinking!

Setting out from Edale it seemed only appropriate to start with a pint at 'The Old Nag's Head', recognised starting point for The Pennine Way. Boards outside advertise 'Food served from 12.00' but they didn't open until 12.05 despite the crowd gathered outside in pouring rain - we weren't served until after 12.15! I continue to be disappointed by the service here: last time I came was towards the end of a busy lunchtime & I couldn't find a table that wasn't awash with spilt drinks. Frequently listed as one of Britain's 'top' pubs, it seems to me that it basks in its reputation. Moan over!

Pub No.2 was 'The Snake Pass Inn', one of my favourites. The girls wanted to visit as they'd never been so we popped in for a post-walk pint. I didn't buy the tee-shirt - I already have one!

Pub No.3 was 'Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese' in Castleton where we all went for an excellent evening meal.... a long-winded way to explain why the blog wasn't published last night!

A brilliant day's walking taking in the gentle climb through Edale, the spectacular Jacob's Ladder (both Jamie & Kirstie were keen to do this, hence the juggling with distances earlier in the week!) & the Kinder Ridge. I'd never crossed Kinder Scout before so was grateful for the kind weather & good visibility.... we'll forget the slightly painful hail shower!

Views back down Edale even better than yesterday!

Highlight of the Day: walking with Jamie, Kirstie & Andy + the fact that, because we had 2 vehicles, Les could do the whole walk.

Kinder Ridge & Reservoir

Beer of the Day: despite my criticism of 'The Old Nag's Head', they do serve a good pint! 'Nags 1577' is brewed to celebrate the year of the pub's construction. I've tried several ales described as having a 'chocolate' flavour & have never really been able to taste it... but this one actually does! A little bit sweet for me but certainly worth trying.

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Manchester Rambler' by Ewan Maccoll

Kinder summit

Today was a kind of change-over day with all the used maps, books, guides & DVDs going home & daughters furnishing us with everything we'll need to complete the walk! They even brought food parcels...!

Trevor: good to hear from you! You'll be glad to hear that, after 6 months, I've almost forgotten about the DfE! What I haven't forgotten is, despite what everybody assumes, this always seemed to be the busiest time of year at Alec! Hope all's well!

Julia: Flagfinders? Now, I had forgotten about them! I'll keep my eyes open!

The next time any of you find yourselves in Castleton.... !

Day 43 - Whaley Bridge to Edale

The Walker is "waisting " away! The shorts purchased yesterday, usual size, were too big around the middle - he definitely needs a size smaller.

Here's the diet: breakfast - 2 large coffees, a shortbread and a chocolate biscuit: during the day - 3 pints, always including a cask beer and at least one cider, a Snicker bar and /or a packet of pork scratchings ( occasionally a sandwich, but only when I moan that I am hungry! In fact only twice in 43 days!) : evening meal - an example would be beefburgers and /or sausage sandwiches (bbq), with some salad, or a pub meal ( not too often) or a ready meal such as curry and rice or a fish pie - with lots of red wine to wash it down. And don't forget the most important thing - You must walk AT LEAST 12 miles or more EVERY day, with as many hills as you can fit in!

Not recommended for everyone and check with your doctor before you start ( and / or your knee specialist!) And remember to keep taking the daily cocktail of heart tablets and pain killers! He seems to be surviving very well on this and is, he assures me, extremely happy!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 11.0 miles : Cumulative 556.8 miles

Expedition manager, driver.... now dietician & medical support team! Though I do seem to recall 'in sickness & in health' being mentioned at some point in the past!

Another National Park!

Whaley's Water Weekend & we almost missed it! Car-park closed, funfair being set up, even more road traffic than yesterday & narrow-boats flocking in from all parts of the Midlands & North-west. I hadn't realised just how big an event this is & all centred around the canal basin at Whaley Bridge.

Bugsworth Basin - intriguingly named Buxworth on the OS map!

It was only a late change at the planning stage that brought us to Whaley Bridge & then took us to the fascinating Bugsworth Basin. I remember being undecided about the route here, partly because of all the main roads getting in the way, but being influenced by reading that the canal network was particularly interesting - what an understatement! All the restoration work has been done by volunteers: bridges, loading bays, cranes, lime kilns, information boards, models, tramway, twin railway viaducts - &, because of the Water Weekend, packed with visiting boats. An unexpected bonus.

All that remains of Forge Mill, close to Bugsworth

Highlight of the Day: view of Edale from Lord's Seat, probably the finest view of the walk so far &, because of the threatening rain, impossible to do justice in a photograph The climb from the bustle of Whaley Bridge to the seclusion of Rushup Ridge was excellent & the moment that the Mam Tor to Lose Hill ridge came into view was quite breathtaking.

Edale from Lord's Seat

Could have done without the downpour whilst on the ridge: started off as hail, turned to sleet & then just heavy rain. The sun was shining by the time I reached the valley!

Approaching Mam Tor

Beer of the Day: 'Damnatian' from Abbeydale Brewery in Sheffield - one of four ales to choose from at the 'Navigation Inn'. I'd just passed a dalmatian dog outside, the logo on the beer pump, & for no other reason opted for this one! A good choice - another very pale but strong-flavoured bitter.

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): Nick Cave's 'The Mercy Seat'... Johnny Cash, also, does a very good version on one of his American Recordings albums, I forget which.

Section 4 finished & the paperwork signed - Pennine Way tomorrow!

Pam: Get the number? Les isn't even sure what hit her!! She says it was big & white.... could have been an albatross!

Julia: hope Maddie's feeling better, perhaps the black swans will help! When I first spotted them I thought they were ducks but Les photographed them on her way back to the van.

David & Marley: thanks for the message - successfully met Les at 'The Swan' in Kettleshulme, easy walk around Toddbrook reservoir & the evening weather was good enough for a barbecue. Enjoyed the chat - all the best!

Day 42 - Oakgrove to Whaley Bridge

Hooray! The van is mended and is all sparkly and happy! The Macclesfield people have been so helpful and friendly - true Northerners! So, unfortunately, had no time to walk today but spent a pleasant couple of hours in the town while repairs were taking place - a bit of retail therapy, looking for replacement shorts for The Walker. He's pretty sad that they are not the same style as 8 years ago!

Whaley Bridge was manic as it was leaving school time when we arrived; hope it will be calmer tomorrow when the walk starts. Not sure how we will cope with people in cities later on! Had to travel to Buxton to find a campsite - last time I was here it was a snowy Eastertime; Jamie, Kirstie and I tackled "Go Ape" and visited a cave. No time to explore the town this time, that will have to wait for another visit.

From Bernie:

Today's walk 13.1 miles : Cumulative 545.8 miles

Early start owing to the van's garage appointment & it was good to be bowling along the towpath of the Macclesfield Canal in lovely sunshine well before 9.00 am. It had been chilly at the campsite & I'd set out in sweatshirt & fleece but these were in the backpack & I was down to a tee-shirt within the first half mile!

Macclesfield Canal just outside the town

Been counting ducklings & cygnets ever since I joined the canals &, mostly, the swans were winning but alongside Bollington's Adelphi Mill one proud mother duck boasted a brood of 13, the largest I've seen so far.

Old canal-side mill, now residential, in Macclesfield

Thought I was going to miss out on a beer in Bollington as I was there quite early &, after a quick exploration of the town, began my climb towards White Nancy shortly after 11.00 am. Passing the 'Bulls Head' I noticed a side-door open though the front door was locked; I looked inside & asked the publican, who was cleaning up, if he was open: 'I can be if you give me a minute,' was his reply - a fine man!

Highlight of the Day: the bizarre 'White Nancy', perched on Kerridge Hill & with a commanding view for miles in all directions. Built as a summerhouse for the wealthy Gaskell family of Ingersley Hall, it is thought that it might also commemorate Wellington's victory at Waterloo.... but that may be only because it was constructed in 1815!

White Nancy

Joined a gent, whose name I forgot to ask, in the hills before Kettleshume - his spaniel is called Marley, fine dog. Walked together for a mile or so chatting about walks & photography (his occupation) before he turned off to head back to Macclesfield. I enjoyed the conversation & Les is right - very friendly people around here!

Curious 'Mole' sculpture created for 2005 Bollington Festival

Beer of the Day: had a pint of Robinson's 'Ginger Tom' at the 'Bulls Head' - brewed locally in Stockport. I was surprised to see it advertised as a 'seasonal' ale - I associate ginger with Autumn or Winter & it does have a pronounced ginger flavour. It's quite light, though, & refreshing - I like this one!

Looking back to Kerridge Hill & White Nancy

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Seems So Long Ago, Nancy' by Leonard Cohen & 'Nancy Spain' by Christy Moore - couldn't get them out of my head after White Nancy until I met the man with the dog - Thanks!

They were obviously expecting me!

Day 41 - Hassell Green to Oakgrove

Where to begin? The day started well, though with rain forecast I was not sure where I was going to join The Walker, so we decided to meet at Lower Moreton Hall - a NT place which has a good write up and I was keen to see. I somehow then joined the NT, something we have held off doing for years after being accosted by rather too enthusiastic, even bossy officials of the said organisation bullying us to subscribe. It was worth it for this Hall alone, though - well worth a visit and it would have been my highlight of the day, except for what happened next.

Little Moreton Hall

As I was going to meet The Walker a large van decided to drive on my side of the road and smash my driver's wing mirror! It didn't even stop! A garage taped it up so that I could drive on; I was going to leave a message at our meeting place and drive into Macclesfield to try to find help. I didn't reckon on the Good Samaritans at The Fools Nook. How fantastic some people are! Being a bit shaken up, I told them what had happened - Dek and Mo sorted out a garage and a replacement mirror, which is, hopefully, being fitted tomorrow morning! Everyone was so kind. Many thanks to Stuart and Zoe for the donation to the BHF - I love your pub and wish we could have stayed! But onwards to John O'Groats!

From Bernie:

Today's walk 15.4 miles : Cumulative 532.7 miles

Originally scheduled as a day-off &, given the weather & what happened to Les later in the day, it might have been better if we'd stayed in bed! But I'd seen the hills & was lured towards them....!

The 'Old Man of Mow' - quarrying remains near the summit

After my harsh words yesterday, about the South Cheshire Way I had little alternative but to use it again to link the Trent & Mersey Canal with the South Cheshire Ring, the Macclesfield Canal. It was well sign-posted, stiles were in order & the going, generally, was straight-forward - the Council have obviously taken note of my comments & acted quickly!

I've never done a great deal of canal-walking but since Montgomery they've been a major feature of each map used & each day's walking. As their routes unfold before you it's possible to see the equivalent of a 19th century motorway system - I'd never appreciated how intricate yet how direct the network; fascinating stuff!

Turned out to be the wettest day of the expedition so far with 3 huge thunder & hailstone storms; as in Bude I happened to be on an exposed ridge of the Gritstone Trail when the lightning first started! I sheltered from the first in woods, the second under a canal bridge but the third caught me fair & square! Between the storms it was tee-shirt weather!

Storm rumbling in from the Welsh mountains - summit of Mow Cop

Highlight of the Day: Mow Cop, pronounced to rhyme with 'cow' my guidebook says! This had been my distant target across the Cheshire Plain since I'd left Chirk &, when I reached the summit, the views were stunning. The Welsh mountains were sharply defined in the eerie light of the impending storms while the white disc of Jodrell Bank shone brilliantly in the sunlight.

Summit of Mow Cop - Mow Cop Castle

Beer of the Day: Stuart & Zoe at 'The Fools Nook' set me up with a 'trio' - a third of a pint of each of their best bitters. 'Wainwright', 'Titanic White Star' & Jennings' 'Cumberland'; a brilliant idea & I think I like them in that order

I must echo Les' thanks to all the pub - after the 3 storms I'd have hated to be faced with the problems of a broken van as well!

Interesting footnote: the pub was built in 1829 for navvies constructing the Macclesfield Canal. It was originally named 'The Royal Oak' but stands on land once owned by the last Court Jester, Samuel 'Maggoty' Johnson - hence its current name!

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): 'Riders on the Storm' - The Doors version, none of the later messed-about ones!

First storm rolling across the Cheshire Plain... & the South Cheshire Way!

Di: after 18 miles on the South Cheshire Way & with the sound of traffic roaring past on the M6 a pink church seemed strangely appropriate! Actually it fits in quite nicely alongside the bright colours of passing narrow-boats!

David: glad to see you're still with us. Yes - I think you've gathered, I'd be happy to walk the extra 10 miles for a proper pint & I'd almost die of thirst before resorting to Coke! As for my favourite, that's very difficult; my taste buds are not good enough to compare a beer with one I tried 3 or 4 weeks ago but I do keep looking out for Weston's 'Old Rosie' wherever I go.....! Favourite bit so far? Probably the first few days on Offa's Dyke but that has an advantage in that I'd never been there before.

As for golf courses, they often take me a bit by surprise as, not being a golfer, I don't study a map in advance looking for little blue flags! I do, however, enjoy walking them & have walked virtually all the Open Championship courses except for Lytham which is a bit short on footpaths! My favourites? Troon, Turnberry & all the Fifeshire courses. As for Dornoch, I have walked there before & it is a stunning spot - hope the weather's good for photos when I get there, though, 'cos it can be desperately bleak when the wind's whistling & whipping up the sand!

Day 40 - Wrenbury to Hassell Green

Raining this morning and not a particularly good outlook for the day but it did look a bit brighter when The Walker set off. I spent a good hour trying to find campsites near tonight's stopping point but Crewe, Alsager and Sandbach are not really tourist areas. Eventually found one, though it's not ideal - in a forest full of rhododendrons but with very little internet connection!

I visited Dagfields Craft and Antique Centre, which looked pretty good when I first arrived with 4 or 5 massive buildings. Well, maybe it's just me but they seemed to be crammed full of items found at boot sales and I lost interest after the second barn! The only real craft I found was a group of ladies enjoying making cards and beaded items in a hobby-craft type of unit/shop. That looked like fun and I wished I could have joined in. I wasn't sorry to leave the glorified junk shops, though I am sure some people find them fascinating - I much preferred my walk along the canal this afternoon, especially as the threatened rain held off and the sun shone!

Canal above Lock 57

From Bernie:

Today's walk 18.4 miles : Cumulative 517.3 miles

The South Cheshire Way has a bit of a thankless task as it winds its way north-eastwards across farmland through an ever-narrowing corridor between Nantwich, Crewe & the M6 &, to be honest, it's not the most exciting walking I've ever done! I did know this, though, when I stood on Offa's Dyke opposite Chirk Castle & surveyed the plain I would have to cross. Its best bits are where it bumps into the canal network... but it doesn't set out to be a canal walk - there are plenty of those. Saddest are the areas where it appears to be deliberately neglected: an example today on the farmland around the smart Mickling Hall where every stile was damaged, missing pieces and, in some cases edged with barbed wire; or at Meremoor where a farmer's fire blocked access to the stile!

Moan over - but if you were thinking of doing the walk I wouldn't bother, it'll only irritate you!

Crossing the busy Shropshire Union Canal - not the same branch that we walked yesterday!

Met a sprightly, elderly man coming out of the Wrenbury Medical Centre just after starting this morning &, seeing me in shorts & light waterproof, he declared "You're dressed in a very bold fashion for today's weather, Sir!"

We chatted for a while - he wanted the rain for his garden! Lovely man - kept me bouncing along for, at least, the next 5 miles!

Beautiful Fishing Lake near Hough - looks like a flooded gravel pit

Highlight of the Day: Lock 57 at Hassell Green - a veritable oasis!

Arrived at the van slightly early, tired & thirsty, to find it deserted & locked! It was easier to ring Les than to scrabble around for my key in the bottom of my backpack & I discovered, (a) that she was up on the canal 'about 500 yards away', (b) the local pub had shut down but (c) she'd found a shop selling postcards.

Postcards have been like gold dust over the last week so I dragged my weary body up those 500 yards (knowing I'd have to walk back again!) & arrived at Lock 57: postcards galore, picnic benches, sunshine & they even sold me a can of ice-cold cider for £1.25! Perhaps it was a mirage!

Expedition Manager & Driver at 'Lock 57'!

Beer of the Day: 'Redwood' from the local Woodland Brewery in Nantwich - I missed the 'sharp, crisp aftertaste' that it claims but it's pleasant enough

Song of the Day (an occasional series!): there have been countless versions of the song '500 miles' & I own quite a few of them! My favourite? Judee Sill's.

Perhaps I should have gone for 'Pretty in Pink'! St. Philip's Church, Hassell Green

Hoping for good weather tomorrow: if it's clear we'll be headed for Mow Cop & The Gritstone Trail (back to the hills!); if cloudy then along the Cheshire Canal Ring.....