Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Harwich to Mistley - Around Essex

Been home for a week now & it's only natural that I'd start to get itchy feet!
Looking for a project to make sure all of this wonderful weather doesn't go to waste & to fill up the time whilst waiting for my knee-op - struggling a bit since LeJog, so it does have to be gentle!

Last walked the whole of the Essex Coast in 1992; in 2005 Les & I set off to walk around the county in tiny, bite-sized chunks but work, amongst other things, got in the way & that venture ground to a halt down on the Thames, in sight of the Dartford Bridge

So, I thought I'd spend a little time tackling a proper circumnavigation - some linear, some circulars; first knee-date looks as if it will probably be December & I won't finish before that but it would be nice to be wandering up the coast next year, some 20 years after those first 'coastals'!



Where better to start than Harwich, the county's most northerly coastal town?
Actually, I'm starting here 'cos I thought it would be a good place to finish!



Loads of stuff to write about, including an excellent Maritime Heritage Trail.... but I'm saving that for later!
Above: 'Ha'Penny Pier' - built in 1854 to serve both cross-channel ships & local paddle-steamers; its name comes from the toll originally charged for access!
Right: Harwich is home to Trinity House Operations & Planning Centre - all UK lighthouses & lightships are monitored & controlled from here!





Harwich's 'High Lighthouse', a partner of the 'Low Light'
They were built by John Rennie in 1818  as 'leading lights' to guide shipping into the harbour
Became 'misleading lights' when the channel silted up!






















.... or begins, depending on which way round you choose to walk it!
Walked the 'Essex Way' twice, both times from Epping & once when I was recovering from a broken arm!
Probably use this on the next couple of outings which are likely to be 'circulars'


My path from the very quiet Parkeston Ferry Terminal took me between the much busier Harwich & Dovercourt Golf Course & an eerily deserted oil refinery.... I wondered if I'd missed the siren!


Once 'The Lord Nelson' pub in Ramsey village; now a private house & listed building - first recorded as an unnamed licensed premises in 1845, when it also served as a post office, its origins are unmistakable!



'The Castle Inn', however, still survives! Popped in here on several walks



Beer of the Day: a pint of Hancock's 'Counting Sheep' - former old Somerset brewers whose recipes appear to have been taken over by Molson Coors!
Reddish in colour, malty but also quite hoppy; enjoyed this but served a bit warm, I thought

Ramsey Windmill - originally built over the border at Woodbridge in Suffolk, it was one of four mills sited on Mill Hills in 1838
It was moved to Ramsey by Henry Collins in 1842 & continued working until World War II

Copperas Wood, Nature Reserve & SSSI on the banks of the Stour Estuary - wonderful woodland walking!













Slightly alarming day for funerals & related incidents!

Emerged on to the lane at Wrabness & was immediately stopped by an anxious lady in a car, accompanied by an older & much calmer companion. She was looking for 'Woodland Burials'... I was standing beside the entrance & its sign                                  
Walked through the woods here, once, while a service was taking place - it all seemed very quiet, peaceful & fitting, somehow



The church with the detached bell-tower is All Saints in Wrabness
The belfry collapsed in the 17th century & the bell moved to this temporary home....!



Royal Hospital School, across the Stour at Holbrook
Founded in 1712, the school moved here from Greenwich in 1933

 


Above: colourful mural at Wrabness Railway          Station                                          Left: this mural is in an attractive memorial garden just above Wrabness station                                            Returned to the estuary through Wrabness Nature Reserve on land owned by the MOD until 1963: paths & trails all over the place including one or two practically overgrown tarmac tracks which I thought might owe something to the site's past - bit close to 'Secret Bunker' territory for comfort!

Jacques Bay on the Stour from an elevated section of sea-wall carrying the Essex Way
Prime bird-watching terrain with 'hides' all over the place - all I saw were a few dog-walkers!




 'Strangers Home', Bradfield
Stopped here for lunch & was just tucking into my ham, eggs, chips & cider when a funeral party came in.... took the edge off my appetite a little
Felt out of place in shorts & tee-shirt when, with only a couple of exceptions, they were in formal black & drinking tea




Bizarre coincidence: upon returning to Braintree & my own 'local' I joined the second wake of my day... at least I knew the people here



Overheard in the 'Strangers Home' : "I'd much rather have a good funeral than a wedding, anyday"!




Highlight of the Day: strangely, a successful journey home!
Had intended to continue to Manningtree but it was becoming very windy, I was tired & my knees were sore! Nipped into Mistley station, found the trains to Harwich ran hourly but there was one due in 3 minutes!
Discovered the A12 was blocked by an accident & knew that roadworks were clogging East Braintree so headed cross-country via Halstead & was home & showered in less than an hour!
Could have been horrible!





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