Couldn't resist the weather but I had to be quick if I was going to be home in time for the Manchester derby at 1.30!
Turned around here in Cavendish during the week, pausing just long enough for lunch & a pint - the village is worth rather more than that!
Above Left: war memorial & Cavendish High Street, site of the Old Rectory which became the first Sue Ryder Care Home - she is buried in the village
Above Right: rather grand village sign which, no doubt, recalls the Cavendish family, ancestors of the Dukes of Devonshire
Cavendish village green & the Church of St Mary
In 1381, Wat Tyler, leader of the Peasants' Revolt, was murdered by John Cavendish after being arrested for allegedly threatening the life of King Richard II
He fled here & pleaded sanctuary in St Mary's church; a few days later his father, Sir John Cavendish, was set upon & beheaded by a mob in Bury St Edmunds!
It's all a lot quieter than that these days!
Left Cavendish by the same route as I'd arrived on Wednesday but this time detoured to look at another of Essex's round-towered churches, Pentlow's St Gregory & St George's
Interestingly, it's on the banks of the Stour, a mile from Pentlow village... but next to the 15th century Pentlow Hall
Highlight of the Day: superb bridleway that runs just inside the Essex border from Pentlow church to Heckford Hill, almost opposite Clare
With football on my mind & a tight deadline to meet it was a joy to discover that this continues due west after Bower Hall & avoids odd detours suggested by the OS map! Elevated for much of its route, views across the valley are excellent..... &, just as a postscript, if not for this I would have been late for the kick-off!
Tranquil scene below Clare's weir, former site of an 18th century corn mill
We've usually used 'The Bell' on Market Hill when visiting Clare but today I opted for the village's oldest licensed premises - one of its previous owners died from the Black Death in 1349!
The superb chimney dates from around 1600.... one of the modern additions!
Believed to be the oldest inn sign in England & thought to be the base of an oriel window from Clare Castle!
The chained swan with a crown around its neck was the emblem of Henry IV; symbols to the left are links to Henry V while the grapevine acknowledges Clare's fame as a medieval wine-producing area
Beer of the Day: not quite so ancient! I'd half-expected a Nethergate ale to be on offer as Clare was its home for 18 years until it moved over the border to Pentlow in 2004. The landlord, however, recommended 'Howell at the Moon' which he described as 'an old porter-type beer'; he knew little else but I should have put 2 & 2 together when he mentioned a Lothian Brewery! It is, indeed, another Belhaven (Greene King) imitation of an authentic ale!
Quite pleasant, smooth, not too heavy... but a little sweet for me
A couple of village signs with enough interesting information to keep me occupied for a little longer though the castle will have to wait!
I knew about the Romans, their camps in the area & the fact that they'd bridged the Stour close to this spot - I didn't know that there is Roman brickwork in Clare church... though I couldn't find it!
The metalwork at the top of the sign on the right reads 'Medieval Wool Town' - not tall enough to capture it against the white background! In the late 15th century Suffolk produced more cloth than any other county &, as at Long Melford, communities close to the river prospered: Clare was one of several 'collection' points in Suffolk where merchants gathered to travel 'in convoy' to Calais (an English possession) &, sure enough, I found Calais Street!
Actually called 'Ancient House', Clare!
Didn't go into the Parish Church of St Peter & St Paul - it was Sunday & things were going on
Couldn't resist a photo of the sundial above the south porch - once we put the clocks back next weekend I think the locals will find it's keeping excellent time!
Fascinating footnote: now, when I walked between Clare & Cavendish I thought I was following the tried & trusted Stour Valley Path.... but these new routes keep cropping up all over the place!
This is one of 7 heritage trails around Suffolk wool towns & I wish I'd known about them before I set off along the Stour valley!
If you fancy a short, attractive, interesting morning wander visit their website: simple maps, fascinating histories & I guarantee there'll be good pubs & food involved!
Any of you interested in football will know the outcome.....
The photo of the river below Clare is very Constable-esque. Reminds me of the Haywain (or it would if it was a pohoto).
ReplyDeleteWell, I said City was the team to beat this year! What a match.
Ann